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Sako for first high power rifle?

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Thank you all for the great advice. I value your input and hope to go to the range sometime this week.
Maybe I should pick up a couple more boxes of ammo.
Take care,
Dave
 
Hi,

I might try to lighten the trigger if it's not too hard.

Does anyone know where a video or picture show might be on this topic?

Is it as simple as removing the two screws and pulling the whole thing out...
IMG_2900.JPG


And then following the manual?
IMG_2903.JPG


Thanks,
Dave
 
Simply remove the barreled action from the stock by removing the two action screws and adjust the trigger according to directions. Incidentally, I always slam the bolt home numerous time vigorously to assure that the sear is catching and holding after adjustment; then after reassembling the gun I bounce the butt of the gun against a carpeted floor as hard as practical without damage to assure that the sear holds against concussion.

Be careful reassembling your Sako. The magazine box must fit properly into its recess in both the receiver and the bottom metal, otherwise you will bend your bottom metal as you tighten the screws. I like to just lightly snug the rear action screw, then torque down the front screw as tight as possible with a hand held screwdriver, after which I go back to the rear screw to see that it is reasonably snug (but not "squeaky" tight).

Every few years, check the snugness of your action screws. Wood can shrink with environmental changes. Nothing spoils accuracy as quickly as loose action screws.
 
Thanks Stonecreek. If I get up the nerve I might give it a try. But, it sounds like a little more than I want to take on.
Dave
 
Dave

Call some of your local gunsmiths and ask them if they have had any experience in adjusting Sako triggers. Then ask any of your hunting friends which of the smiths they trust or have had work done on their triggers. The low cost of having a pro adjust your trigger far out weights any accidental discharge.
 
Yea, that sounds like a good idea. We have a good gunsmith in my town.

I'd like to measure the trigger pull before doing anything. Do you guys have any suggestions on a good guage? Thanks.
Dave
 
My first trip to the range with the Sako was a let down. I didn't know what I was doing and tried sighting it in like a .22. After firing off 18 rounds pretty quickly they were flying over the place. I picked up the rifle by the barrel and thought...damn they really do get hot. At that point I packed it up...

After that...I read up a little on the topic, cleaned the copper out the barrel and headed back with some new ammo and better targets.

The Sako can group. Here's my best group of the day. I'm pretty stoked.

SakoDimeSizedGroup2.JPG


SakoDimeSizedGroup1.JPG


HornadySpecsSako.JPG


I never messed around with the trigger.

Looks like I have a hunting rifle that I am proud to own and will last my life. I appreciate everyones help with this process.

Dave
 
Well Done Super Dave,

Good shooting, and thank you for the pictures, we all like to see what our favorite rifle is capable of.

When you do get out to do some hunting, please send along some photos of your trophies.

Best Regards,

Rowdy
 
Thanks Rowdy.

How many rounds do you guys fire when checking for accuracy of a particular load?

Seems like it takes me quite a few. But, I'm new at this stuff.

Dave

Thanks,
Dave
 
Thanks Rowdy.

How many rounds do you guys fire when checking for accuracy of a particular load?

Seems like it takes me quite a few. But, I'm new at this stuff.

Dave

Thanks,
Dave
With the big game calibers in sporter barrels I shoot three shot strings when comparing loads for accuracy. With heavy barreled varmint calibers I shoot 5. A hot barrel will usually start to spray bullets. With the caliber you have, shoot a three shot string, waiting a few minutes between shots to not let barrel heat build up. Adjust the "center" of the group to your desired point of impact. Let the barrel cool completely. Shoot another three shot group & check to see if further adjustment is needed. Shooting 18 shots in rapid succession is abusive to barrel steel & will overheat the barrel, potentially damaging the rifling in the throat area. Clean the barrel thoroughly before you start and at least after each 10 rounds. 18 shots has probably fouled the barrel enough to affect accuracy somewhat. Cleanliness is next to Godliness when it comes to accuracy. A fouled & dirty barrel will not shoot to it's potential. The group in the picture is very good! Three shots touching with one flyer is not something to be disappointed in. Also, the power of scope you use & your shooting techniques are probably more of a variable with regard to accuracy than the rifle. I always feel I am the weak link when it comes to accuracy. Expecting ANY rifle to shoot sub MOA out of the box with factory ammo is expecting more than is realistic, although sometimes it does happen. With more work yours may be one of them. Good Luck & good shooting!!
 
Hey, thanks for the input.

I received a trigger pull gage and it looks like it's set to 2 lbs 12oz. I think I'll leave it as is.

How much of a difference in point of impact do you find between the shots from a cold barrel and one that is warm (3 shot string warm)? I think I'm seeing about an inch in movement between a slightly warm barrel and a cold barrel.

Just to clarify. I was real happy with the group in the photo. It was my first trip to the range a couple weeks before that I was having trouble.

Thanks,
Dave
 
Don't worry about where it shoots with a warm barrel. Your first & MOST IMPORTANT shot is from a cold barrel. Focus on that!! Some rifles shoot the first shot from a CLEAN cold barrel to a slightly different point of impact than the next few. If that is the case with yours, just fire a fouling round before hunting. I don't clean a rifle that shows this trait during the hunting season. You don't shoot enough rounds just hunting to bother with cleaning. Clean it after the game is in the bag!! Barrel heat affects each rifle in a different way. Some show huge differences. Others show less. Just depends.
 
Paulson has hit the nail on the head! A hunting rifle should be set up with first shot / cold barrel in mind. If a second shot is needed, especially if the quarry is on the move, the margin for error will far exceed the group size your rifle is capable of.
..Then again, when hunting with Sako rifles, second shots are seldom needed!:coffee:

Happy Hunting & Shooting~Bloo
 
Hi Everyone,

It's been a while. We have booked a couple of hunts for Axis deer on Molokai in the early summer.

I need some advice on what swivels to purchase for the Sako. I'm not sure if the swivel studs are original and if they will work with the current stuff on the market like Uncle Mikes.

Thanks,
Dave

IMG_3483.JPG


IMG_3484.JPG
 
Sure. Uncle Mike's or anybody else's will work with the quick-disconnect studs you have. Easy to find and inexpensive.
 
Great, thank you very much. I just ordered a pair. And that concludes my shopping list for the hunt (until I think of something else).
Dave
 
Hi All,

I took the Sako out to the range to make sure it's ready for the hunting trip next month. I was surprised that it was not zeroed in from the last range session 6 months ago.

After the last time at the range I cleaned the barrel real well and removed the copper. The gun has been in the safe so it has not been knocked around.

SakoTarget%25204-11-13.jpg


I was using the same ammo. I had to adjust the scope down by 2" and to the right by 2" to get it back where it was.
Could a good barrel cleaning / copper removal change the point of impact like this? If not, what else could be going on?

Thank you very much.
Dave
 
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I would check to see if the scope mounts are tight. That's usually where the problem will be. I would also check the stock screws to make sure they are tight. I doubt that cleaning your barrel had much to do with it.
 
Damn, you were right. Bummer. The rear screw was loose. I pulled it out to put some Loctite blue on there. While cleaning the threads with a cloth the darn screw cracked in half. Geez. The gun came from the dealer with the scope mounted. Maybe it was over tightened?

I guess my next question is...are Leupold scope mounts the best or should I get something else?

Thanks,
Dave

IMG_3659.JPG


IMG_3660.JPG
 
Leupold is send me new screws. Got to love their service. They recommend it to be tightened to 45 in pounds. Can anyone suggest a good Torque Wrench Screwdriver that is less than $100? Thanks,
Dave
 

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