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Question about A1 mannlicher

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

You can search this website & see the video to verify its reputation.
Not cheap, $549.00 US to $629.00 US. IMG_2349.png
 
You can sell them if you don’t need QR rings and get decent Sako classic or opticlok rings. Yours scope is guite high - mai;ly we like lower assembly. Pretty nice kokotukki!
 
You can search this website & see the video to verify its reputation.
Not cheap, $549.00 US to $629.00 US.View attachment 34621
Oh nice didnt know this, thanks!
You can sell them if you don’t need QR rings and get decent Sako classic or opticlok rings. Yours scope is guite high - mai;ly we like lower assembly. Pretty nice kokotukki!
Yeah i know.. its decent but maybe not perfect for me. Also the lenght of pull is a bit on the shortish side as far as im gotten used on shoulder fired thingies. Not gonna put any extra spacers on the back though, wanna keep it in its original configuration. Just "cleaned" barrel with some oil and two passes with bore snake. Bore seems to be in shiny condition no pitting whatsoever. Barrel crown seems to have original blueing and its intact. Most job and time consuming is getting rid of the all reddish cosmoline and tar it has...
 
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Also one thing i noticed: when bolt is in uncocked state, the safety wont engage. When in cocked position the safe works fine and also locks the handle. So in uncocked state the safety seems to be in firing mode only. Is this normal function or just grud and grime in the safety mechanics?
 
I have never fired an A1 carbine or any Sako carbine in .223. However, I have L461 carbines in .222 and .222 Magnum and both can shoot 2-3 cm groups at 100m. An A1 in .223 should show similar performance, so it should be quite suitable for bashing grouse, foxes, etc. at 75m. This is assuming that the gun is set up correctly and there are no issues such as a warped stock, overtightened barrel band, loose action screws, etc. The Zeiss 6x should be a good choice for this task.

Some of my .222's shoot very well with 40-grain bullets. Worth a try for small game.
About the barrel band again... The tightening screw seems to be in pretty solid and tight. Even though the band has slight clunk in it. The clunk is very minor and has to be looked and feeld for it. Question is, do i leave the clunk to be or do i tighten it to "very tight". My gut says its so tight right now, that ill leave it as be. Do minor clunk affect or destroy anything? Straight outta box shot first round way of because not getting uset to trigger. Second and third went allmost from same hole. Ammo used was the most cheapish that came with the rifle, but good stuff. 100m distance.

And btw circle is made with masking tape and sharpie. Here in the land of Sako we dont pay much attention to the sharpness or accuracy of shooting. Anything that will do the job is acceptable.
 

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The first shot from a cold barrel, especially if it has been cleaned since it was last fired, almost always strays a bit from the group. Combined with "user error" due to being unaccustomed to the trigger, the stray shot is not surprising. The two subsequent ones almost touching are an encouraging sign.
 
I agree with Stonecreek. That is a very promising start. I would not fiddle with the barrel band at this point. I am not sure what you mean by "clunk" but if there is a little bit of play in the band it won't hurt anything. The play would most likely be because the milling of the stock wood isn't perfect. Nothing to worry about as long as the band screw doesn't back out.
 
The first shot from a cold barrel, especially if it has been cleaned since it was last fired, almost always strays a bit from the group. Combined with "user error" due to being unaccustomed to the trigger, the stray shot is not surprising. The two subsequent ones almost touching are an encouraging sign.
Yeah that what i thought as well. Did this trial with snow shoe hike and laying with backpack as gunrest. Ill try to go to the gun range as soon as the snow melts enough.

I agree with Stonecreek. That is a very promising start. I would not fiddle with the barrel band at this point. I am not sure what you mean by "clunk" but if there is a little bit of play in the band it won't hurt anything. The play would most likely be because the milling of the stock wood isn't perfect. Nothing to worry about as long as the band screw doesn't back out.
Yeah the only consern was that the play would damage the wood with the occasional clunk now and then while manouvering the rifle from the sling.

marininsanna:​

You can print a much better target than you get with tape and a sharpie by using this website: https://www.shootershed.com/tgtgen/index.php

I like a 2" benchrest square for shooting from the bench at 100 yards. But some prefer the traditional set of concentric circles.

No way im gonna print anything. I dont have printer and not gonna go to the library or any that kind of place. The paper i shot wast the aluminium paper from sauna making. The aluminium paper is used to make steam barrier between the outer and inner walls of the sauna. I had few meters of leftover from sauna build back in the 2009 and now it came handy.
 
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Fiddled with the scope today. The gun came with the scope ridicilously far in the front. Had to soak the ring screws in oil and still had pretty hard time getting them out. Screws and rings had lots of rust and grime beneath them, that also left some nasti ring marks on the scope. Reinstalling the scope i didnt use so freaking much torque and the scope rings has even slits around, it had screws so tight that the slits were closed.... Hoping that the scope is intact even with huge torque before.
You guys happen to have any secret tricks of getting rid of the ring marks? Lightly oiling them wouldnt do much. Guess have to live with that.
The bolt handle clears nicely the scope, not much room left.
 
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Birchwood Casey also makes an Aluminum Black solution which works just like cold blue for touching up bare spots on anodized aluminum. Like cold blue, it's never a perfect match, but usually results in a cosmetic improvement. Of course, aluminum alloys vary from scope to scope, so some do better than others.
 
Several years ago, one of our SCC members took it upon himself to have a good supply of sight hoods and Sako replacement ring screws made. They were top quality. He offered them to SCC members for only what it cost him to have them made, but (surprisingly) only a very few took him up on the offer (I myself didn't buy nearly as many as I should have).

To recoup his costs he sold his inventory to a certain purveyor of Sako rifles in Montana who is infamous for his lack of candor about the rifles he sells and the inflated prices he asks. This retailer now offers the same sight hoods for several times the amount that they were offered here on the forum. I won't do this guy the favor of passing on his contact information, but I'm sure you can find it if you look around enough.
 
Actually, the carbine in question appears to have US-made Williams sights. Hoods for these are easily found in the USA, but perhaps less so in Finland. I would search the internet for a dealer or importer who handles Williams.
 
Actually, the carbine in question appears to have US-made Williams sights. Hoods for these are easily found in the USA, but perhaps less so in Finland. I would search the internet for a dealer or importer who handles Williams.
Several years ago, one of our SCC members took it upon himself to have a good supply of sight hoods and Sako replacement ring screws made. They were top quality. He offered them to SCC members for only what it cost him to have them made, but (surprisingly) only a very few took him up on the offer (I myself didn't buy nearly as many as I should have).

To recoup his costs he sold his inventory to a certain purveyor of Sako rifles in Montana who is infamous for his lack of candor about the rifles he sells and the inflated prices he asks. This retailer now offers the same sight hoods for several times the amount that they were offered here on the forum. I won't do this guy the favor of passing on his contact information, but I'm sure you can find it if you look around enough.
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Could get this kind of contraption. Do the little tab need to be in both sides for it to seat properly?
 
The tabs on the Sako hood hold it in the correct location on the sight ramp, and they also make it harder for a limb to pull the hood off when hunting in brush. Lots of hoods are pulled off and lost when hunting in brush.
 

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