Hi, I have an L461 with a newly fitted Timney trigger that had had the bottom of the trigger blade filed to give clearance from the guard, & filed away stock woof from the front & safety catch side. On fitting the bolt to the rifle, I can close & fire it once, though on future attempts (without removing the bolt from the rifle) it won't cock. Does anyone have ideas on what is preventing the cocking? Regards, Mike.
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Fitting a Timney trigger
- Thread starter cybermike
- Start date
Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum
paulsonconstruction
Sako-addicted
Not having the rifle in hand makes it hard to know for sure, but here's what I "think" is happening. When you put the bolt in the first time the striker (firing pin) is catching, as it should, on the sear that sticks up thru the action near the tang as the bolt goes by. The striker is then held in the cocked position & fires when the trigger is pulled. On subsequent bolt cyclings the striker is not catching on the sear because the sear in the Timney trigger is too far back so that the striker can't engage it's rear surface & be held in the cocked position. You have to either move the trigger sear forward (or remove material from it's rear surface) or get the bolt to go farther back so the striker & sear engagement surfaces can properly align. To confirm this "theory" try removing the bolt every time. If it stays cocked there is a good chance that is where your issue lies. Hope this makes sense because it's a lot easier to "see" the problem than explain it. Another "possibility" is the over travel (backlash) is improperly set & not allowing the sears to engage. Back that way off first & see if things change.
I can't recall if the Timney is adjustable for the amount that the bolt sear protrudes through into the bolt sear channel. It is possible that the bolt sear isn't "sticking up" high enough and the firing pin sear surface is slipping over it as the bolt returns to battery.
It is also possible, as Paulson alludes to, that the overtravel and weight of pull isn't allowing the internal trigger sear to catch. If so, it would act as if you are holding the trigger back as the bolt is closed.
Trigger fitting isn't really a job you want to do if you're not experienced at it. But how do you get experience at it, you might ask? Ummm . . . the answer can sometimes be unpleasant considering how an unintended discharge makes a lasting impression. You might want to engage the services of a competent gunsmith to complete the fitting job.
It is also possible, as Paulson alludes to, that the overtravel and weight of pull isn't allowing the internal trigger sear to catch. If so, it would act as if you are holding the trigger back as the bolt is closed.
Trigger fitting isn't really a job you want to do if you're not experienced at it. But how do you get experience at it, you might ask? Ummm . . . the answer can sometimes be unpleasant considering how an unintended discharge makes a lasting impression. You might want to engage the services of a competent gunsmith to complete the fitting job.
GreyFox
Well-Known Member
Take the rifle out of the stock and cycle it, see if it engages then. If so, lipstick is your best friend!! Light coat on the trigger and replace it in the stock, see where it's contacting, I'm betting it's at the front of the trigger cut out, LIGHTLY remove a little wood until the trigger is working properly.
If the problem persists when the gun is out of the stock, check to make sure the trigger is not rotating downward to prevent seat engagement, If it is the trigger pivot is adjusted SLIGHTLY in small amounts to get the rifle functioning properly.
After you have perfect function, then you can adjust the pull weight, make sure you SLAM the bolt home, like a rapid cycling out hunting, and make sure the firing pin remains cocked.
If the problem persists when the gun is out of the stock, check to make sure the trigger is not rotating downward to prevent seat engagement, If it is the trigger pivot is adjusted SLIGHTLY in small amounts to get the rifle functioning properly.
After you have perfect function, then you can adjust the pull weight, make sure you SLAM the bolt home, like a rapid cycling out hunting, and make sure the firing pin remains cocked.
What a saga this has been to solve! I used the lipstick trick & it was not obvious what more wood needed to be filed away. It eventually became apparent that the trigger was prevented from coming forward far enough during re-cocking (was being squeezed to one size with increasing action screw torque). The Timney trigger is further over to one side than the original one (I suspect maybe due to the large safety catch plate). So after filing away a little on both the front of the trigger where it was contacting the baseplate & the baseplate itself, & a little to the squeezed side of the trigger, I eventually go the result I desired - a trigger pull down to 2 - 2.5 lbs! I have to say a big THANKS FOR NOTHING to the trigger manufacturer who said nothing in the instructions of the need to file away metal from anywhere apart from the bottom of the trigger blade where it may contact the guard (I had to do this too), & gave no response to my Email queries. I hope this can help someone else, & thanks to y'all for your suggestions 
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paulsonconstruction
Sako-addicted
It's unfortunate that you had to go through such a struggle to get the Timney to fit, especially since the original Sako #4 trigger can easily be adjusted to a crisp 2#- 2.5# pull you were looking for with much less work & no modifications.
