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Cracked my stock

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m40a1

Active Member
So three weeks ago, I went shooting with some friends. I went home and started cleaning and noticed a hairline crack on the right side of the forend. I pulled on it and saw that it went back about 14in toward the receiver. So of course I start looking the whole stock over and find another crack. This one went from the bottom of the bolt handle cutout running back to the wrist. I have gone and glued the forend crack, but the one in the wrist I can't open enough to get glue in. Only the right side of the receiver cutout seems to be cracked at the moment. Should I wait till it cracks some more or should I force the crack open and glue it? Thanks in advance.

Semper Fi,

Luis R.
 
m40a1-I know nothing about stock repair and wood glues and such....I am puzzled by the cause of this, the only thing that comes to mind is that the action screws where very loose during your range session....always check for tightness....sorry to hear such news and good luck in your efforts to repair your stock-Bloo
 
I suppose I should mention that this is a L61R in 30-06, #2484xx. I got it on auction. The picture was not very detailed so when I received it I found quite a bit of rust, most on the barrel. The stock was kinda beat up and it was missing the grip cap. Was not exactly happy with the auction house, but after firing it the first time, I changed my tune some. I've been going thru it, a little here and there, cleaning it up.


Bloo - the stock screws were tight. Since it's a factory stock I only tighten them to 25in/lbs and they get checked every second or third range session and they have never come loose.

Bob - thanks, I hadnt thought of that. I was actually thinking about shooting it again to see if would crack more.

Semper Fi,

Luis R.
 
M40a1

What works good for me to get glue into a small crack, is a syringe. Be sure to use one with a small needle (usually if you're careful the needle doesn't even leave a noticeable hole). Titebond II weatherproof wood glue works good. Just insert the needle about 1/4" to 3/8" into the crack being careful to keep the tip of the needle in the crack (this is the most important part). Very slowly push the plunger until glue starts easing out of the crack. If the crack is 1" or less in length, inserting the needle once is usually enough. If the crack is longer than 1", insert the needle on about 1" spacing. Immediately wipe off all excess glue that eases out of the crack, then apply a clamp being careful not to dent the wood, and wipe off all excess glue the clamp squeezes out. Set aside to dry and (this is important) check about 3 minutes later for any additional glue that might have eased out and wipe it off. With a little luck, you won't even need to refinish the crack area. I glue the crack first and then if the crack area needs refinishing its usually no big deal. It's easier to throw the syringe away than to clean the glue out of it.

Don
 
M40a1:

I purchased a L61R awhile back with a crack behind the tang, I believe the cause was a missing rear bolt sleeve.

Bob
 
Don - thanks, another idea I had not thought about. I used Gorilla Glue. Have had a few people recommend it and after using it on the first crack I think I agree and will be using it exclusively.

Bob - the brass pillar/spacer for the rear action screw is still there, along with the metal shim.


I bought a McMillan stock a while back that was listed as a AIII stock but it didn't fit. The screw holes are too far apart so I didn't want to mess with it. For now I'm stuck with the wooden one. And since it's off the action, I decided to replace the recoil pad which is mush with a Limbsaver. I'm also going to replace the sling swivel with flush cup swivels.

Semper Fi,

Luis R.
 
The glue we have found to be the best for restoring old recurve bows is Loctite 420, a slow drying super heavy duty glue. I have used it on cracked bow handles, limb cracks, age cracks and redoing the tips. these are bows that are still shot today. The glue can be sanded, and reclear coated. A syringe does work well.
 
best thing to do is just have a custom stock made fore the rifle...I had this done about 20 years ago after futzing around with the piece of crap original stock, Sako just seemed to have problems with their wood, cracked stocks are not uncommon.........replace it now before you are out hunting and have a catastrophic failure and end up eating your rifle!!! A new custom stock could only help the retail value of this rifle if it is a rough as you say...........................................
 
Hi all,

My experience with epoxy has dictated the use of compressed air to drive the slightly thinned epoxy into the finest wood separation.

Stephen
 
I just posted this note a few weeks back. Here it is.....

Ah! Wait! Stop! Cracks are easily fixed by squirting a bit of super glue in the crack and gently clamp the stock between two wooden blocks in a vise and apply enough pressure to close the crack. My local gunsmith taught me this technique years ago and it works perfectly. The bond is stronger than the wood around the defect. Be careful not to overdue the superglue. After applying quickly wipe off any excess. No need to sand and refinish with this method.
 
ricksengines said:
I just posted this note a few weeks back. Here it is.....

Ah! Wait! Stop! Cracks are easily fixed by squirting a bit of super glue in the crack and gently clamp the stock between two wooden blocks in a vise and apply enough pressure to close the crack. My local gunsmith taught me this technique years ago and it works perfectly. The bond is stronger than the wood around the defect. Be careful not to overdue the superglue. After applying quickly wipe off any excess. No need to sand and refinish with this method.
Click to expand...
 
Hi Rick,

I read your post and appreciate and agree with all posted. My two bits worth was meant as another tool in the gunsmithing box of tricks we all can use.

Thanks,
Stephen
 
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