Short Actions 461 Firing Pin Spring

[fshaw]

I have a H&R 317 that regularly misfires and needs a new firing pin spring, all other possibilities have been checked. Are there any better options than the Wolff springs that aren't ridiculous in price? If Wolff is the best/only option which is the better choice, 30# or 34#?

Thanks.
Frank

 

[paulsonconstruction]

Wolff's spring sells for $8.29 + shp. They work & they are available. What's "ridiculous"? My advice would be to buy the 30# spring and take it & the bolt to a gunsmith. Good luck!

 

[fshaw]

Ridiculous to me is an original Sako spring for over $125.

 

[ERP]

Ridiculous to me is an original Sako spring for over $125.

Sometimes you have to walk away from some one trying to scam you. Should never be that expensive.

 

[paulsonconstruction]

What good does it do you to complain here?

 

[stonecreek]

I have a H&R 317 that regularly misfires and needs a new trigger spring

I'm assuming that by "trigger spring" you mean the firing pin spring (striker spring) like in the title? I thought I had the same problem with a Kimber of Oregon Model 84, but found that it was just gunk in the firing pin assembly which was keeping the firing pin strike too light. If that's not your problem then more likely than a weak spring is the adjustment of the pin protrusion. Remove the bolt from the rifle then rotate the handle to let the pin down which will expose the firing pin from the face of the bolt. See if the protrusion is adequate. There's a good chance it is too short and needs to be adjusted to protrude further. There are directions on how to make this adjustment here on the forum if you'll search for them.

Another possibility is excessive headspace. You don't mention the caliber, but if it is a .17 and you are making cases from .223 then your resizing die may be pushing the shoulders too far rearward so that when the pin strikes the primer there may be insufficient resistance for it to set the primer off. The same might be the case with .223 factory loads (or FLS brass) which is often on the short side (length to datum line) since it is made to operate in autos which don't like tighter-fitting brass. Check the effective amount of headspace as well as firing pin protrusion.

 

[fshaw]

Firing pin spring is correct as in thread title. My typo in body of thread, fixed it. As I said in my initial post, all other possibilities checked. Only interested in info related to firing pin springs. Thank you.

 

[fshaw]

What good does it do you to complain here?

Not complaining.

 

[fshaw]

What good does it do you to complain here?

Not complaining.

Wolff's spring sells for $8.29 + shp. They work & they are available. What's "ridiculous"? My advice would be to buy the 30# spring and take it & the bolt to a gunsmith. Good luck!

Thank you for the recommendation.

 

[kevinlg]

A simple......yet effective way to check the firing pin spring.

Remove the bolt from the receiver. Decock the bolt, which exposes the firing pin protrusion. Get, or make, a small brass or hard nylon spacer that is 0.1" thick(or thicker) and 0.375"(or slightly smaller)in diameter. Note: I usually use a small nylon cap nut.

Place some bathroom scales on your work bench. Press the exposed firing pin tip down onto the spacer, on the scales, until you feel slight firing pin movement.
A good firing pin spring should show 22 to 26 pounds on the scale....IIRC.

Simple......yet effective.

Hope this helps.

 

[fshaw]

So it looks like Wulff is the only viable replacement option.