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338 win mag loading

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

244HeavyL579

Well-Known Member
Howdy, my kid bought a 338 Winchester magnum. I think it's a around a 1970 finbear. I was wondering if anyone would share with me a good reload combination to work with. I figure it would save on the shoulder if I could start with a leg up. I have never loaded for one of these bad boys or shot one. I'm guessing the 338 kicks as hard as a 300 rum. Any help is much appreciated.
 
Data from any reloading manual will be more helpful than copying someone's favorite load since your rifle may act very differently from another individual's rifle -- even if it is a Sako from the same general period.

I will say that since you have IMR4831 and H4350 on hand (from your post on loading the .243) that either of these powders should work well in your .338. If deer or black bear are your quarry any 200 grain bullet will work fine. I like a 225 Nosler Accubond or Partition for elk and similar larger game.
 
Ilike 69 grains of IMR 4350. I use 225 grain Hornady spire point for practice and 225 grain partitions for Moose, Deer, Bear. 2800 fps is plenty, and you can get 100 rounds out of 1lb. powder. It's so nice to have 100 bullets, 100 primers and 100 cases and be done. You could put up to 75 grains but then you are only going to get 3 or 4 firings, whereas, 69grs. should get you 6-8 before the brass are too tired.
 
I’ve used 200 gr Nosler Ballistic tips on two different bull elk, complete pass throughs on chest shots; my bull moose rec’d 2-225 partitions. Shoulder and Ribs through neck. Last one found under the hide- 190 grains of it left over. Performance as anticipated. VV165 and RL-16. Be prepared for sticker shock on the reloder 16.
 
I’ve used 200 gr Nosler Ballistic tips on two different bull elk, complete pass throughs on chest shots; my bull moose rec’d 2-225 partitions. Shoulder and Ribs through neck. Last one found under the hide- 190 grains of it left over. Performance as anticipated. VV165 and RL-16. Be prepared for sticker shock on the reloder 16.
So far the local prices for powder in MN have not caught up with the online prices. I'm able to find most powders for around $50. Lately I have been buying extra powder seeing an increase in price is unavoidable. Primers are scarce especially for large rifle magnums. I have a few hundred of those yet but would be nice to pick up a brick. I went to a gun show last week and a guy wanted $200 for a brick of large rifle. I think he could read my lips as I walked away, lol. Drove over to the store and picked the same ones up $130 which is still high priced. lol. It's a little windy today but what the heck I'm going to shoot anyways.
 
Lately I have been buying extra powder seeing an increase in price is unavoidable.
Actually, a price decrease is unavoidable. The current price of powder doesn't reflect its cost of manufacture and distribution. Once hoarders stop snapping up every canister of powder that hits the shelves then the manufacturing capacity will exceed the market absorption, at which time powder prices will fall to their normal competitive level. I'm not saying we'll go back to the days when hopper car loads of military surplus powders were available at give-away prices, but the current market has all of the characteristics of a bubble which will eventually pop.
 
Around my place powder is available. I think people are slowing down as most of the splurge buying is done for now anyways.
 
There's a current thread on the subject of powder prices on Gunboards. Posters there are suggesting that the current shortage and high price of powder is likely to persist for a while because powder manufacturers are filling rush orders for the war in Ukraine.

What is a mystery to me is why large rifle primers are so chronically in short supply when small rifle primers and both sizes of pistol primers are readily available, albeit at somewhat higher prices than we are accustomed to.
 
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Posters there are suggesting that the current shortage and high price of powder is likely to persist for a while because powder manufacturers are filling rush orders for the war in Ukraine.
A series of armed conflicts around the world (Afghanistan, Iraq, Ukraine, and now Israel) has stoked military demand for nitro/cellulose/glycerin products which is reflected in the reduced volume of those products available to civilians. Combined with hoarding in the civilian market this has naturally escalated the price of canister-grade gunpowder. But assuming (which is not a foregone conclusion) that wars, or at least their size and intensity, will eventually abate, then civilian gunpowder prices will abate also.
 
67.5-68.0 grains of IMR 4350, Federal 215 Match primers and Barnes 225 grain X/TTSX bullets has shot very well in five 338 Win Mags I have owned. I started with Winchester brass and now use Norma brass. My last remaining 338 Win Mag is a rebarreled Model 700 which shoots that load just under MOA based on an average of ten 3 shot groups. If I toss out the worst of the 10 groups, it would average .85. I love the 338 Win Mag...it just plain works.
 
67.5-68.0 grains of IMR 4350, Federal 215 Match primers and Barnes 225 grain X/TTSX bullets has shot very well in five 338 Win Mags I have owned. I started with Winchester brass and now use Norma brass. My last remaining 338 Win Mag is a rebarreled Model 700 which shoots that load just under MOA based on an average of ten 3 shot groups. If I toss out the worst of the 10 groups, it would average .85. I love the 338 Win Mag...it just plain works.
Edzachary! I have 3, .338s as well. A Browning BLR-LA, Re-bored and re-rifled from 7mm Rem. Mag, a Modern Winchester Model 70 with ( CRF) And a Browning BAR. All-of them shoot the IMR 4350 and the 225 grain Spire-point with sedate powder charges.
 
I’ve used 200 gr Nosler Ballistic tips on two different bull elk, complete pass throughs on chest shots; my bull moose rec’d 2-225 partitions. Shoulder and Ribs through neck. Last one found under the hide- 190 grains of it left over. Performance as anticipated. VV165 and RL-16. Be prepared for sticker shock on the reloder 16.
The longest kill I have ever made on a Deer was with 200 grain Nosler Accubonds a friend gave me. He did not sell the loads with the SAKO he had. I think he dumped the SAKO as quick as he did because it was misfiring. I found-out fairly quickly he had acted too soon. The guy who bought-it never had a hitch but the ammo he gave me from-it would not go-off; even after several strikes. All of his primers were too high and never seated properly! I guess his priming tool was out of adjustment. After all the primers were seated correctly with my Lee hand-prime while I was watching TV; everyone went-off, first-try with no hangfires.
 
Howdy, my kid bought a 338 Winchester magnum. I think it's a around a 1970 finbear. I was wondering if anyone would share with me a good reload combination to work with. I figure it would save on the shoulder if I could start with a leg up. I have never loaded for one of these bad boys or shot one. I'm guessing the 338 kicks as hard as a 300 rum. Any help is much appreciated.
I don't know if this helps at alle, but my Sako l61r 338wm really really likes the Federal TBBC factory loads. If someone knows what might be the recipe I would be very interested. Just bought the last ones I could find from Europe. The bullet closest to 338 TBBC 225gr I could find from here is Rhino Solid Shank but it is either 210gr or 250gr...
 
I don't know if this helps at alle, but my Sako l61r 338wm really really likes the Federal TBBC factory loads. If someone knows what might be the recipe I would be very interested. Just bought the last ones I could find from Europe. The bullet closest to 338 TBBC 225gr I could find from here is Rhino Solid Shank but it is either 210gr or 250gr...
I have a friend that works for federal in Anoka MN. I will have to ask him to find out what the formula is the next time I see him. I was going to try and get my kids 338 going this weekend but my case trimmer broke. Then I might as well break out my sako 300 rum and soften up my shoulder a little bit.
 
I have a friend that works for federal in Anoka MN. I will have to ask him to find out what the formula is the next time I see him.
You may or may not get a usable formula. A lot of factory ammo is loaded with bulk powders that are not available in consumer packaging. However, if your friend has sufficient technical knowledge, he might be able to suggest a comparable canister powder.
 
You may or may not get a usable formula. A lot of factory ammo is loaded with bulk powders that are not available in consumer packaging. However, if your friend has sufficient technical knowledge, he might be able to suggest a comparable canister powder.
Especially since he works with the powder.
 

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