• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Sako TriAce, 22-32, 3-in-1, Case Catcher

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Register Log in
BobGee

BobGee

Active Member
When I bought my complete TriAce, a previous owner had made a case catcher out of a bit of fine cloth netting and bent coat hanger wire. Try as I might, I cannot work out how this contraption was fitted to the pistol. I have a Walther GSP-C centrefire for which I have a very elegant and effective after-market catcher held in place by two tangs, which lock in the slide port to prevent longitudinal movement, with a wrap-around Velcro strap to secure it to the pistol.

Has anyone developed an effective case catcher for the TriAce or 22-32/3-in-1? These days, with very strong rare-earth magnets available, it would seem likely that one could be produced which would stay in place, catch the cases and still allow the pistol to fit in the ISSF measuring box.

Any help or ideas/thoughts would be very welcome.

Bob
 
Years ago I had a Caldwell hoop with a net on it that could be mounted on a tri-pod. Kind of a hassle to shoot around but did catch a lot of handgun brass. Can't see that they still have it available so must not have been a big seller. Really only worked if you were shooting at one target. Not so well if you were plinking cans or such.
 
CVCOBRA1 said:
Years ago I had a Caldwell hoop with a net on it that could be mounted on a tri-pod. Kind of a hassle to shoot around but did catch a lot of handgun brass. Can't see that they still have it available so must not have been a big seller. Really only worked if you were shooting at one target. Not so well if you were plinking cans or such.
Click to expand...
They still make it; I bought one a couple of years ago. Works well as long as you're shooting from a fixed position and stance. Can be a hassle to get it at the right height.

The only on-weapon brass catchers I'm familiar with are for rifles, mainly semiauto. There are several made for the AR-platform, and I have a Finnish military brass catcher for a Valmet, but I haven't seen anything for a target pistol.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I shoot ISSF Centrefire with the TriAce so, theoretically, the hoop on a tripod could work. Unfortunately, our shooting bays are a little cramped at the best of times so a compact, gun-mounted setup would be preferable. I’ll keep working on it and report back if I come up with anything.

Bob
 
Well, I managed to fabricate a catcher with a 4mm dia. aluminium knitting needle and some light ally plate. It comprised a U-shaped front section to fit under the barrel ahead of the slide. It was held in place there by a Velcro strap over the top of the barrel. A longitudinal arm was Araldited to its underside; this was shaped with a tongue to fit into the slot in the fore-end of the frame to stop longitudinal movement. The knitting needle was attached to the right side of the U-piece again with Araldite and it ran back towards the ejection port where it was shaped into a rectangle to catch the cases. One of my wife's small socks was held in place over the rectangular frame with duct tape to capture the cases. Worked a treat except that it rubbed on my trigger finger.

No problem, thinks I, I'll just reshape the rectangular opening so that it has an inclined bottom rail. Of course, aluminium doesn't like to be re-bent so it broke. OK says I, I just use some of that low melting aluminium rod you find being sold at all those tool fairs one goes to. Not so easy and the heat caused the knitting needle to break too. At this point, I've called a halt.

Then I found a photo of a TriAce in its case on a Swedish gun dealer's site which included a catcher. It puzzled me for a bit then I realised it must be designed to clamp onto the vertical part of the trigger guard. This might be a better way to go.

A friend has a Unique .32 which has a smart leather catcher which clips to a small bracket screwed to the grip. That might be a way to go too.

I'll report back...

Bob

TriAce catcher.jpg

Swedish Triace.jpg
 
Last edited:
Since the above, I found another catcher online designed and made by Daniel Sallros in Sweden. It is very simple and he made it using 3D printing and some small neodymium magnets. I don’t have the 3D printing capability so made mine out of hardwood. I was concerned that it might shuffle forward under recoil but if you have enough magnetic oomph then that doesn’t happen. I increased the friction on mine by using Araldite to glue to magnets in and not completely sanding the hardened epoxy off the mating surfaces. Very simple concept and many thanks to Daniel. Note, the bottom rail must be inclined to avoid rubbing along your trigger finger.

upload_2020-7-10_10-48-7.jpeg

upload_2020-7-10_10-54-46.jpeg

upload_2020-7-10_10-55-29.jpeg
 
Here’s my first attempt prior to the Araldite. Needed more magnets. Mine are 4mm dia x 4mm cylindrical N52. I think Daniel's are larger but same N52. Also, don’t make the frame opening into the "sock" too small.

upload_2020-7-10_11-9-33.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Nice work. For those of us outside Oz, would you be so kind as to tell us what Araldite is? I imagine it's cyanoacrylate (superglue), but would like to confirm.
 
icebear said:
Nice work. For those of us outside Oz, would you be so kind as to tell us what Araldite is? I imagine it's cyanoacrylate (superglue), but would like to confirm.
Click to expand...

Araldite is a two-part epoxy resin that is available in all hardware stores here and the UK in a variety of forms: super fast 90second, fast 5minute, super strength, ultra-clear, etc. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araldite. The Wiki article refers to J-B Weld with which you will be familiar I’m sure. Araldite is now owned by the Huntsman Corp. of the US, but licenced to different outfits (Shelley’s in Australia).
Bob
 
Last edited:
BobGee said:
Araldite is a two-part epoxy resin that is available in all hardware stores here and the UK in a variety of forms: super fast 90second, fast 5minute, super strength, ultra-clear, etc. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Araldite. The Wiki article refers to J-B Weld with which you will be familiar I’m sure. Araldite is now owned by the Huntsman Corp. of the US, but licenced to different outfits (Shelley’s in Australia).
Bob
Click to expand...
Got it, thanks. You're right, J-B Weld is a very familiar item here in the USA. I've used it for many things, mostly with success. A J-B repair once saved me several hundred dollars that I would have had to spend to replace the air cleaner housing on my old Porsche 944.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top