• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

First Sako Riihimaki .222

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

I always get drawn up in a knot when someone starts messing with the bedding on a factory Sako by pouring some synthetic slop in there. I'm not saying that the problem is necessarily the bedding, but you may have to root it out with a rotary tool and re-do the job.

That shouldn't be necessary. You can float a barrel by carefully scraping out a thin layer of wood or bedding material with barrel channel tools available from Brownell's. I've done several of them, both with the original wood and ones that have been bedded with compound. That is both simpler and less risky than trying to rout out the bedding compound and redo the bedding job.

I'm on my way out to my shop building right now and while I'm out there I'll take photos of the tools you need to float a barrel.
 
Thanks very much icebear, I will have a look and order if necessary. Pictures of channel will follow this week....I feel like Sherlock Holmes...only not that astute:(!!
 
Here are my barrel channel tools. From top:
Dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it
Gunline barrel channel tool (from Brownell's)
Barrel channel scrapers (from Brownell's)

The Gunline tool has cutting discs in various sizes. I can't remember if different size discs are included with the tool or if they are ordered separately, but of course you need to be sure that you have a set at, or just slightly smaller than, your barrel diameter at the front of the fore-end.

Barrel channel tools.JPG
 
I left out one tool. The ones in the photo were out on the bench because I've been using them lately, but there is also a larger, two-handed version of the Gunline barrel bedding tool. You'll see it in the Brownell's catalog or website. This is an excellent tool for big jobs (like opening up a barrel channel full of bedding compound), but it requires the stock to be held in a very rigid vise or fixture of some kind so that you can use both hands to control the tool. The last time I used mine was to open the barrel channel on a semi-inletted Fajen stock for a heavy-barrel .22 I'm building. It's a great tool, but it may or may not be what you need if all you need to do is take off a few hundredths to float a bedded barrel.

Here's a picture of it, together with another channel routing tool I found in my stockmaker's tool box. The tool on top is for rough cutting; I don't think it's appropriate to the job at hand but I thought I'd illustrate it anyway. I'm not actually sure if that is a specialist stock tool or just something made for general woodworking.

Barrel channel tools 2.JPG
 
Evening ib, I located the tools you pictured last night on the Brownells website (Gunline ) and the Jerry Fisher scrapers...Question, with a Sako Varmint contour barrel what size would you recommend ? There are serval options....Power and bullets arrived today so I will try different weights with the H4198 to see it there is a large improvement....If not I will order the tools.

Regards,
Steve
 
I'd measure the barrel right at the tip of the forend (use a digital caliper for best results) and get the Gunline tool with the cutting discs that are closest to that size, but slightly smaller. If you get lucky and there's one right on the barrel size or even a teensy teensy bit bigger that would be OK too, but that's pretty unlikely. As I recall the Sako barrel will have a slight taper. Best to measure yours as there may have been slight variations over the years. You normally have to use a slightly undersized tool, make your cuts left, right, and center, then even up the cut with sandpaper. I'm pretty sure you want the larger of the two Jerry Fisher scrapers, but once again, measure to be sure. The scraper is much the easier tool to use, but the Gunline tool gives you a nice consistent cut once you master it. I'm not sure which will work better on bedding compound as I have limited experience with compound and some formulations are harder than others. Take it easy at first with the tools until you get the feel of how much material you are taking off and how to make an even cut.
 
Last edited:
ib, thanks for the quick response and great info.... I have one more range trip before I go "Invasive" on the stock but have the tools saved in the basket just in case (I will put the calipers on the barrel by the tip of forend before ordering).

Regards,
Steve
 
Loaded some 4198 with 52 grain Barts and 40 grain Sierra 10,000's off the lands ..We will see if that makes a difference...pics below are what I found when taking the action out.
Regards
V9q5Ibh.jpg

6LU4dOD.jpg

NSmUdTi.jpg

OI2G94s.jpg
 
kirkbridgershooters, tried the 40 gr .224 Hornet bullets today with 21.0 grains of H4198 seated back 10,000's with much better results. At least this is at a point way better than min of barn to try and improve group. I will now try a couple of different charges and OAL to see if I can shrink group size. Let me also mention that the weather was cold and VERY windy this morning which may have been a negative for me :(

Regards,
Steve


35MynBD.jpg
 
Shot this group this afternoon out of the Sako pictured above that I think is a 1/14 twist but would not shoot 50, or 52 grain bullets. This was round two of H4198 20.5 grains, Fed 205 primers, new Lapua brass and Sierra Hornet .224 40 gr. Varmint bullets set back 10,000 off. I also tried 40 V-Max but the group opened up to just over an inch.

tU3wcsi.jpg


Next photo down is first try with second purchase Sako .222 shooting H4198 with 52 grain Barts bullets...I felt it when I threw one but it shows promise and I will continue to work with this combo.

sqJYvic.jpg
 
Thanks icebear and all the other forum members who contributed their knowledge. I will send along some additional photos with load data particulars as I continue dialing them in.
Regards,
Steve
 
Thanks to Kirkbridgershooters for recommending the 40gr hornet bullet....We had temps in the 40's so a range day was in order. I believe I've got it dialed in. Thanks again Guys for all the info.

Regards,
Steve
l4T5uUW.jpg
WlQ7IFs.jpg
 
I neglected to mention load data in last post : Lapua brass, federal 205 primer, 21.5 gr. of H4198 40 gr. Sierra seated fairly close to the lands (my ojive 1.844)
 
Back
Top