What rings, bases, or ringmounts to use with a Finnbear?

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Sako parts' started by bridgerbear, Apr 30, 2009.

  1. bridgerbear

    bridgerbear Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hello, I am new to the forum and kind of new to the older Sakos. There is a little bit of contradicting info out there on the internet on rings. I purchased a M579 .243 and few years ago from a old friend that was selling it, since he never used it any more. It's name is Moose Killer, because he used it for that and to take down elk. I have a picture from the 70's of a small paddle moose he shoot around here (1 shot in the neck on the run) and loaded it on the back of a VW Beetle to bring out of the mountains. Chuck was/sometime still is a most excellent shot. One day playing at the range, I decided to see how it grouped at 200 yards and lo' & behold it was still same holing the A-max like it does at a 100. To see this rifle one would not think it capable of such; cut-off stock(Chuck does not like much LOP), old extended Weaver mounts, a 1961 Redfield scope, and kind of used looking.

    I guess I am kind of hooked on old Sakos now. Spent a few years looking and found, at a gun show, a 7mm Rem. Mag. Finnbear L61R in great shape with a very heavy barrel (original)(told its a 1980s, long range and a little rare). I am starting setting everything up; new scope, rings, dies, components for it. It seems hard to find a good set of solid rings for this Finnbear and I read about rings being out of center-of-boar, then a lot of the used ones available look wimp and the people selling them are getting rid of them due to problems (eBay). Probably, as monies are saved up, I am going to put a Zeiss Z-1000 on it. Even talked to a guy that wire cut a couple sets for himself because of the problems he was having.

    Looking to what is available for sale and it looks to mostly be for the newer Sakos. I have emailed Leupold(Matt Chin) and they told me they only have 11mm rimfire rings mounts that will work; that does not sound good. Yet, on this forum there are mentions of Leupold rings mounts. Contacted Warne and they told me Sako would not give them correct specs. How good are the used original Sakos? Anyone using the Leupolds? What are you all using? What is good? What is available?

     

  2. deergoose

    deergoose Sako-addicted

    Messages:
    1,732
    Likes Received:
    177
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    US Virginia
    Stick with original OEM Sako rings, and you won't have anything to worry about. You can buy the older ones from the '60s on eBay, or settle for the newer Optilocks. Either setup will provide you with years of service. Good luck.

    DeerGoose
     
  3. emmerth

    emmerth Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    797
    Likes Received:
    6
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    US Pennsylvania
    bridgerbear,

    Welcome to the forum. You found a good home for your Sako passion.

    In reference to rings, if set up correctly, I have never had a problem with Sako (older and new), Leupold, Controle, and Warne. I did have a problem with a set of Milletts but I am not sure if it was not my fault.

    The easiest to set up (in my opinion) are the Leupolds. I can have a scope mounted correctly and bore sighted in under 15 minutes.

    Here is my process,

    Temporarely mount the rings and scope

    Make sure that you have the correct height rings for your applications

    Then adjust the rings to the correct position to give you the best eye relief and mounting position - then mark position of rings

    Then I mount the lower part of the ring and use a 1" metal rod to make sure the rings are center - tighten (with the older Sako rings, i use a penny and a pair of lineman pliers to tighten the lower ring BIG screw. When the penny starts to twist, it is tight enough)

    Then I place the scope in the rings and adjust eye relief and level

    Then I place the tops of the rings on and tighten

    Then I do a once over on all screws to make sure they are tight

    Then I check level again

    Then I bore sight using a bore sighting tool

    I have used loc-tite in the past on the screws but I have found that I do not have any issues with them coming loose. However, I always check them before I shoot.

    Using the 1" metal rod will get you centered and save your scopes from being damaged.

    Good luck.
     
  4. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

    Messages:
    6,583
    Likes Received:
    728
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    US Texas
    There are very few "bad" rings for the Sako tapered dovetails. The Weavers you have on your other gun are ugly, but work just fine if you don't mind the scope standing excessively far above the bore.

    Original Sako mounts, Redfields, Leupolds, and Milletts have all worked fine for me. Since you have a heavy gun and it sounds like you are intending to mount an oversized scope on it, you could use the currently manufactured Sako Optilock mounts. Those mounts are very heavy, excessively tall, and excessively expensive. But if the weight and height aren't a problem for you and you don't mind spending something well north of $100 for a set of rings, you might consider them.

    By the way, I've never encountered any problem with rings purchase from ebay or any other source.
     
  5. hayseed51

    hayseed51 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    607
    Likes Received:
    0
    Hi Bridgerbear -

    Welcome to the club and Sakodom. Your question about the scope mounts is common - in fact there's a whole section on the main page devoted to it. The photos and archives have some pics of many of the different types. Don't think there's truely a best, but in my mind some are better than others. My two bits -

    Weaver mounts are the only mounts I truely dislike. Among other things, they have a setscrew that mars up the checkering on the scope pads. If I buy a rifle and it has Weavers, I take them off and throw them in the lake.

    Redfield type are better looking, but still use the setscrew. Also, the front dovetail ring pivot with windage rear is in my opinion, a bad design. I know they're very widely used, but they've broken my heart twice now, and I'm done with them - Sako or otherwise.

    Millet has some fans here. I have a set, but haven't used them

    The fellow you talked to at Leupold was a dud. They've had a couple setups for the tapered dovetails, but what you're looking for are their one piece ringmounts. Inexpensive, solid, available in blued or stainless, 1" or 30mm, lots of heights... They don't have windage adjustment, or use the recoil tab in the rear though. Ebay will have many listed at any given time.

    Sako Optilocks are regarded as expensive and end up being quite high. Crazy that they use a base/ring setup on their own tapered dovetails. The inserts do give a great grip without marring the scope.

    I like Conetrol a lot. The only problem is they're expensive, and they do take a little fiddling with. Very, very handsome, and will fit everything under the sun. Very good customer service in my experience. Strong and have windage adjustment.

    For my money, it's still hard to beat the original split Sako ringmounts. They have windage adj built into the bases, very strong, utilize the recoil tab in the rear, and are polished up nicely before blueing. Not as streamlined as the Conetrols, their beauty is more classic. A few things to watch out for... Most are marked 25.4 in the bottom = 1". They made some also for the old scopes of the 50s and early 60s that are 26mm, and marked so. Also, I try to stay away from rings that have been lapped. You may have to pay a little more for a matched set in great shape, with unbuggered screw slots, but it'll be worth it - get some good screwdrivers, if you don't have them already. Not sure if the Zeiss is 1" or 30mm, but no 30mm in these babys.

    Thing about windage adjustable bases is that it allows you to get square to the bore and keep the scope's internal adjustments close to the sweetspot center. By the same token, it allows the alignment to be further off, if done incorrectly. Take your time with whatever you get - it ain't rocket science.

    Look up the excellent review by Stonecreek of different mounts a few months back. Think his take may be a little different on some of this. Good luck, whatever you decide. Dick
     
  6. nimrodrx

    nimrodrx Active Member

    Messages:
    33
    Likes Received:
    0
    Optiloks are nice. Keeps the scope clean. However, they're a bit over engineered and heavy for my taste.

    Warne and Leupold get the nod from me these days.
     
  7. oblio13

    oblio13 Member

    Messages:
    21
    Likes Received:
    0
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    US New Hampshire
    I don't think anything beats the vintage Sako rings. I can't understand why they aren't made any longer. Optiloks are heavy, ugly and waaaaay too high._
     
  8. bridgerbear

    bridgerbear Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    This has been a great response from you guys. I got back from a short road trip and opened the forum up this morning. It is a great to see all this information sitting here answering my questions. I happened to talk to a guy, while on the road, who runs the gun shop at a place called the Fort in Big Timber, Montana. He is a Sako fan and really likes the vintage Sako rings, plus uses them along with the Optilocks and Leupolds. He also has a Finnbear in 300 Win Mag and a 243 varminter in a Forester(I think) for sale. I now know what to use and what not to use from the responses. I'll do a bit of studying and make a decision here in a while or if one of the suggestions comes available I'll pick them up. Looked at the Conetrol web site and sent an email for more info from them. Saw on the Sako web site a set of Ringmounts, even shows a locking tab, when I was looking at the Optilocks, don't know if they will fit the older models. The Sako Ringmounts look nice though, but I not real sure on the Optilock bases and rings. The vintage just might the way to go and from the sounds of things Leupolds got everything covered. I'll sent another email to Warne, perhaps they thought I was talking about a newer Sako and I'll read that post by Stonecreek. Again, thank you for the time all of you put into this, plus the technical info as well. It is all appreciated by me.
     
  9. finnbear270w

    finnbear270w Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Old Sako mounts or Optilocks for me.

    Warne also make good mounts.

    Welcome to the site.
     
  10. L61R

    L61R SCC President Forum Owner SCC Board Member

    Messages:
    1,209
    Likes Received:
    162
    Country Flag:
    Sweden
    State/Region:
    SE Ostergotland
    Welcome bridgerbear!

    I second whatxB4s been said earlier! I just want to add LeupoldxB4s QR mounts to the list! IxB4ve used them quite a lot and I like them very much. Easy to install and capable of handling heavy recoil. ItxB4s easy to get proper height because of the various rings available. And off course itxB4s easy to take the scope off! ThatxB4s my 2 cents anyway!

    Good Luck!

    Jim
     
  11. Roger

    Roger Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    CA Ontario
     
  12. Roger

    Roger Member

    Messages:
    12
    Likes Received:
    0
    Country Flag:
    USA
    State/Region:
    CA Ontario
    Vintage red field two piece steel mounts PN-512016 will accept standard rings and looks fantastic on my L 61 long action (1961) 30-06. The rear mount has a built in protrusion that sets in the notch of the receivers dovetail preventing recoil shift. Each mount also has a setscrew. I found that the dovetails for the LA and SA recovers are different. The Rihimaki 222 take the Redfield mount PN- 512015. These are fixed mounts so Tapping them forward with a mallet does the trick! Look at E bay! I still have my original SAKO see through adjustable mounts from Europe and these fit on both actions. Good luck!

    Roger
     

Share This Page

This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Okay More information