Tikka 595 Master Sporter. 223 twist rates

Discussion in 'Valmet and Tikka' started by GreyMatter, Jun 20, 2019.

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  1. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    I recently picked up a Master Sporter. 223 Rem from a FFL friend of mine. It came from consignment from a gentleman (avid long range shooter) that had a stroke and was liquidating his horde. I recieved everything plus some goodies for $650 (4) steel mags, 2 cheekpieces, 2 complete buttpad assemblies w/ extra spacers, 2 extra action screws, and 1 plastic mag. I assumed they all were manufactured with 1:12" twist. This wears a factory stamped imported by Beretta 1:14" twist. I checked it 6 times. Anyone have any insight? I cannot find any info with this combo. Any info is really appreciated

     

  2. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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  3. P04R

    P04R Well-Known Member

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    I have some Finnish catalogs from that time and they list only 1/12'' for 223 Rem. A special order maybe? They had 1/14'' blanks to be used for the 222, so no problem at all to chamber one for 223. Is the 1/14'' stamped on the rifle anywhere? Any markings on the rear face of the barrel around the chamber?

    I would imagine 1/14'' would work great in 223 with very light bullets.
     
  4. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    What "info" are you looking for? Any published load data will work fine. As the 222 Rem will stabilize 52-53 grains bullets in a 14 twist, the 223 Rem with it's increased velocity, will have no problem doing the same. It will probably stabilize 55 grainers, as well, except for the longer plastic tipped bullets. The current "fast twist" craze is for those you think shooting bullets of 69 grains or heavier is advantageous. My 223 has a 12 twist and will stabilize a 63 grain bullet, but i see no advantage shooting the "heavies" for my purposes. I settled on a 40 grainer & would never go back to anything heavier.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2019
  5. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    Thanks for all the replies! I was trying to find if anyone had seen another with this twist. I'll check the barrel breach face for markings later this evening. I'm not upset about the slower twist rate, as I planned on working up a load with 50gr vmax, 52gr smk, or 53gr smkfb. I was just surprised about the twist rate.
     
  6. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    Anyone happen to know the torque specs for the action screws?
     
  7. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    Sure. Just don't over tighten them. After all this isn't a car it is a Sako rifle. So gentle tightening is all that s necessary. If you have a larger caliber or magnum rifle a bit more tightening will be required but again avoid the temptation to overtighten the screws.

    rick
     
  8. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    Tightening action screws to a specific torque setting with such dissimilar materials as steel & wood is a fool's errand.
     
  9. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    I just ran them to 20 inchpounds. I was hoping there was a pdf manual somewhere online but I can't seem to find it.
     
  10. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    The bottom/mag well is actually plastic with steel speciality washers. I wish it was made of steel.
     
  11. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    That makes it even worse. Plastic & wood give under pressure, as well as change with temperature. The only system that a torque wrench could have any credence would be pillar bedding where all contacts points tightening together are steel. With small screws found on firearms, thread roughness, dirt/grit, oiled or dry threads, thread locking compound, etc. can effect the torque "reading" so much as to make it meaningless. What does "20 inch pounds" mean if the action isn't solidly attached to the stock or if it so tight it warps the action? How can "one" torque setting be right for every rifle from any particular maker? The variables in the wood & bedding from rifle to rifle would make that impossible, IMHO. Just food for thought.
     
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  12. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    No disrespect to greymatter but if he doesn't take our advice in the long run he pays the price. I personally tighten the action screws by hand using a screw driver that fits the slots properly. By using the hand method I can feel the amount of pressure I am imparting to the screws and through experience I know when enough is enough. I never use lock tight on anything anywhere. I consider that stuff to be verboten when it comes to screws used anywhere on a rifle especially scope mounts, rings and action screws. I've discussed this in other posts so I won't bother to go there again in this thread.

    BTW I've been doing this stuff for most of my life including machining and making stuff out of a wide variety of metals. I have never used a torque wrench anywhere near a rifle and would have to defer to Louis Black when describing anyone that would.

    I only have one question....what the heck is a inch pound anyway? Just kidding! I just have one wish. I wish that folks that come to us for advice would take our advice instead of going off in a direction that could spell disaster for them down the road. In fact I remember posting something along those lines a while back.

    Finally, I just got a rifle that had a nice Leupold scope on it and a set of Redfield mounts and rings. My normal process for cleaning and oiling a new rifle coming into my collection is to disassemble the external hardware because over the years rust tends to creep in under the mounts so a good inspection and oiling of the same prior to reinstallation is SOP for me. You would think that removing the ring screws would be a relatively easy task. Well, for the first time in my experience one of the dang things was in so tight I couldn't get it to loosen up. That ring had to be cut using a slitting saw on the mill! What a waste! If the joker that installed the ring set in the first place had done the job correctly instead of grossly overtightening the ring screws that situation would not have happened. Did I mention that the caliber was 22 Hornet! But as I said, you can't fix stupid.

    rick
     
  13. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    Sorry it's taken so long to get back to reply. The reason I settled on 20lbs was that the screws felt the best at that torque. I did that to find a repeatable spec for my notes. I shoot Long Range matches a few times a year, work as a gunsmith at a local shop, and have a 400 yard range behind my house. This is my first Fin rifle outside of a M39 and a M28-76. What you are saying is true and appreciated.
     
  14. GreyMatter

    GreyMatter Member

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    P.s I never use any threadlocker on anything but scope mounting lol
     

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