Sako Ring Mounts finishing

Discussion in 'Tips and Tricks for gunsmithing your own Sako' started by Aii, Apr 27, 2018.

  1. Aii

    Aii Member

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    Hey all, new Sako AII .308 owner here! First post, and I thought I'd introduce myself, show what I found during my Sako Ring Mount S1701904 (30mm) installation, and get my post count up while I'm at it!


    - Jim
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018

  2. Aii

    Aii Member

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    I bought the 30mm Ring Mounts to mount my Leupold VX-3 4.5-14 Side Focus scope with 30mm tube. The rings are cast and there was a significant amount of metal flashing that I had to file away before mounting them up.
     
  3. Aii

    Aii Member

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    Here are some before pics showing the flashing as-purchased:
     
  4. Aii

    Aii Member

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    IMG_8950.JPG
    IMG_8951.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  5. Aii

    Aii Member

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    And after light filing with a triangle file:

    IMG_8953.JPG IMG_8955.JPG
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2018
  6. Aii

    Aii Member

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    After removing the flashing both mounts fit much more securely.

    I removed the recoil pin from the rear mount and it ended up seating on the dovetail exactly flush with rear of the ejection port.

    The front mount slid forward smoothly and, with a couple gentle taps from a small hammer & wood block, seated itself about 3mm behind the front of dovetail. The side locks are adding & tightened down firmly. It ain't going anywhere!

    I noticed that if the recoil pin was left in place and the side lock tightened down, the rings would have been horribly mis-aligned off to one side. Removing the recoil pin allowed the mount to slide forward and naturally center itself on the dovetail.

    Hope this helps another enthusiast with their installation...

    - Jim
     
    stonecreek likes this.
  7. cl_leg

    cl_leg Well-Known Member

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    I never seen anything that bad. I would have sent them back. Good job on the clean up.
    Note that as you slide the mounts forward the more left they go. I will have to look to see where mine sit with the pin.
     
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  8. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    You did a good job cleaning up some poorly machined mounts. You also did the right thing by positioning them all the way forward so that it is the two solid sides, not just the movable clamp, that bear against the dovetail.

    I personally think that the current Sako (factory) mounts are a poor design compared to the earlier ones, and your experience with the sub-par machining demonstrates that they are also not as well built.
     
  9. Urbo

    Urbo Member

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    Hello! I am sorry, but I think you made many mistakes. First, if those ring mounts are original Sako parts, you should instantly contact Sako dealer and get better quality rings. And you should not remove the recoil pin. Moving front ring backward and forward you can make harsh vertical adjustment. And hammer is not scope mounting tool.;)
    Sorry my bad English...
     
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  10. gowyo

    gowyo Sako Junkie

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    And there you have another piece of evidence in the quality argument regarding current Beretta-Sakos versus pre-Beretta Sakos. Well, at least in current manufacturing quality control...

    Good save Aii.
     
  11. Aii

    Aii Member

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    Thanks for the input. I considered returning the rings but in the interest of time I opted to do make the minor corrections myself.

    Here are some more details on my process:

    - When pushed forward the front mount's dovetail and side posts will self-align on the receiver's dovetail, so its position can be considered fixed.

    - I did trial runs both with and without the rear recoil pin to understand its effect on bore alignment.

    - With the recoil pin installed the rear mount's dovetail and side posts are not allowed to seat in unison. If you were to clamp it that way the side posts would be unused, the recoil pin would be contacting an unknown surface of its recess (not 100% forward), and the ring would not be centered on the receiver, but justified off to one side.

    I verified this with a very long 30mm hydraulic piston rod that I had on-hand. I mounted the rod in the rings in both configurations, with and without the recoil pin. I checked the rod's alignment with the barrel and sure enough, with the recoil pin installed the rod was clearly misaligned at the muzzle, slightly angled to one side. With the recoil pin removed, the mount pushed forward, and all three contact points fully seated on the rear dovetail, the rod and barrel were in alignment.

    - The gentle taps from the hammer were used to seat the rings on the dovetail, not to mount the scope.:) And I mean gentle; using my knuckles to rap the mounts was almost good enough, so I added the wood block and a couple hammer taps.

    - With both mounts seated forward and wedged by design on the dovetails, only then did I install the side clamps. Tightened securely they add insurance to an already mated, tapered joint.

    - I centered the pre-owned scope's reticle and initial bore sighting shows perfect left-right alignment, and slightly low at 50 yards as is expected. I'll be sighting-in and shooting groups this weekend.

    Thanks!
     
    BFK likes this.
  12. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    Ya done it just right. Mounting the Optilocks much like one would the Redfield/Burris bases ensures that they are firmly in full contact with the dovetails. I use MORE than just a "tap" when moving these bases to their extreme forward position -- I use several very firm raps with a mallet against a block of hardwood -- and the base should adhere so firmly that reversing that process is the only way to remove it. After all, if you don't seat the bases to their extreme forward position then the recoil of the gun eventually will. Which movement of the bases after mounting is exactly what you don't want. The dovetails are tapered for a reason; placing the bases any amount rearward of their most forward position invites trouble.
     
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  13. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    Refreshing to see someone that understands the Sako dovetails & how to properly mount a scope. Getting rid of that useless "recoil lug" is something I consider mandatory. Can't for the life of me figure out why Sako insists on putting that stupid pin in their ringmounts. Guess it's just because they always have & can't remember why.
     
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  14. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    I think our friend and fellow Sako enthusiast keving figured it out. The pin is a fore-aft reference if you detach the scope rings and all. You can re-attach it and with the pin as a reference it will be back in exactly the same place, so theoretically your zero will not have changed. I've never had much use for quick-detachable mounts, but I suppose that so long as no one fiddles with the detented nuts on the LH side of the original ringmounts that the scope should remount with the same zero.

    The irony is that Sako continues to use the silly pin even with mounts which are not adaptable to removal-replacement. Like you say, they've forgotten why it is there.
     
  15. Aii

    Aii Member

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    Update: Sighted in this weekend and the first shot was just 2" high and left @100yds. Not bad!

    Good grouping from this beauty! Especially considering the wobbly shooting bench and the AR guy to my left spraying hot cases all over me. Still getting used to the trigger too, it's the best I've shot. Very happy...
    IMG_9064.JPG
     

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