One of the biggest problems for Sako collectors is the unfortunate fact that a very high percentage of original Sako rings have badly buggered screws. This comes from previous owners (and even guys who call themselves gunsmiths) using improper screwdrivers. The Sako ring screws must be turned with a parallel blade screwdriver, such as the one-piece drivers made by Grace or the interchangeable bit systems offered by Brownells and many others. A driver with a tapered blade will inevitably turn out of the slot and damage it. Original screws are unobtainable, and the repros offered by a certain dealer of dubious reputation are expensive at 30 bucks a set. With careful effort, screw heads can be semi-restored to the point where they will be at least unobtrusive. You can't make a messed-up screw head look like new, but you can make a major improvement that will eliminate it as a distraction. The tools for this are the correct screwdriver, a pin vise to hold the screw, a screw-slot file plus other files to your taste, a fine sear stone (I like the triangular variety), 320 or 400 wet/dry sandpaper, fine bronze wool, a buffing wheel or a buff on a Dremel tool, denatured alcohol, and your favorite cold blue. I've found that Van's Instant Gun Blue is easy to work with and delivers a reasonable approximation of the color of Sako bluing. The first step is to clean the screw with denatured alcohol. Then chuck the screw in the pin vise. Next, using the screw slot file, clean up the slot on the buggered screw. This is critical. You have to square up the slot and get rid of burrs, including at the ends of the slot. Next you need to get rid of the ridges along the top of the slot created by the incorrect driver rotating out of the slot. This can be quite difficult. One tip is to use your fingernail to feel for the ridge. Often you will be able to feel a ridge of metal that you can't actually see. The stone can be quite useful at this stage. Then you need to file and hone the head to a correct shape. This is relatively easy with the earlier style rings with the horizontal joint between top and bottom. These use cheese head screws and you just have to file them flat. The late style rings with the angled joint use Fillister head screws, which are slightly domed. It's quite a bit harder to restore these to a semi-original shape. Once you have the shape done to your satisfaction, polish it with some 320 or 400 wet/dry sandpaper and finish up on a buffing wheel or a Dremel with a hard buff. I actually do the polishing in two stages - first I use a hard felt buff impregnated with valve grinding compound (left over from another project), then I use a softer buff with Dremel polishing compound, which is basically jewelers' rouge. Finally, you need to clean the piece with denatured alcohol. Be sure to clean the threads as well, to get out any dirt or leftover locking compound. The final step is cold bluing. You can pour out some bluing liquid in a bottle cap or other small container and immerse the screws in it, or you can apply the bluing with a Q-tip. Let the bluing work for several minutes, then immerse in cold water to stop the action. Card with fine bronze wool and repeat as many times as necessary to get the finish you want. (Safety note: All bluing salts are toxic, most are acidic, and they are not good for your skin. Whatever you do, don't touch lips or eyes while you're using cold blue. Manufacturers recommend using rubber gloves. Van's Instant Gun Blue seems to be pretty mild on the skin and I don't bother with gloves, but I do make a point of washing my hands immediately after using the stuff.) Here's a photo of a recent restoration with Fillister head screws. I did them four at a time to keep from having to reorient the scope. The screw on the right is restored; the one on the left is as found (i.e. buggered). The restored screw looks better in real life than it does in the photo. The strobe on the camera has made the reblued surface look much lighter than it appears to the eye. Since the ring screws are buried in the counterbore of the upper ring half, they are in shadow and minor flaws are not visible. The camera exaggerates the flaws.