• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Recoil Pad L61R

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

joeisuzu

Member
hi, new here and got my first sako last year its a very nice L61R .30-06 got it for a song working at my local gun shop. Im planning on taking it hunting this year and I am in need of a new recoil pad. I do have a grind to fit Kick eez pad that looks to be almost the right size, but Im curious as to what others have used as a stock replacement.
Thanks, Lucas
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I have used Pachmayr premium pads that are a fairly close match to the original Sako pad. The pad used was a deluxe field 325b medium brown. Take a look at Pachmayr's site and see if that will work for you.
 
I have used Pachmayr premium pads that are a fairly close match to the original Sako pad. The pad used was a deluxe field 325b medium brown. Take a look at Pachmayr's site and see if that will work for you.
Thank you for the quick reply with good info I appreciate it!
 
Little more info ,Lyman now owns the Pachmayr brand I found the site and it looks like the pad is now called F325. It's suitable for both rifle or shotgun. good luck. Jim
 
Your Sako .30-06 is an excellent shooter and high quality hunting rifle, but is not a "collector". So if you like the Kick Eez pad go ahead and use it. If you want a more original look then the Pachmayr suggested by gunner620 is an excellent choice.
 
Your Sako .30-06 is an excellent shooter and high quality hunting rifle, but is not a "collector". So if you like the Kick Eez pad go ahead and use it. If you want a more original look then the Pachmayr suggested by gunner620 is an excellent choice.
correct its definitely not “collectable” in the traditional sense but more so for me as Ive never owned a Finnish firearm. I like the Kick eez pads and they work well fitting them though can be tedious and time consuming. Which ever one fits the best is what Ill use. Still working on getting the old base plate off.
 
Be careful taking the base plate off or you will damage the stock. you will most likely have to chip some of it off and sand it flat. Only chisel from the outside in or certain damage will happen.
 
Joe- Your pad looks pretty good. Is it hard or is there something I am not seeing?. If it is No Bueno just cut off the soft part before you try to use some heat to remove the glued on plate. There will more than likely be a couple screws. When you get the pre-lims done , use a hot hair dryer and blast right at the plate. Once you get the plate good and hot, use a razor knife to start lifting the plate from the wood. A little at a time. Go slow. If it doesn't start, reheat. If you feel you are over your head....let a smith do it. No shame in capitulation. I have done over 30 of the sako pads for myself and others. The kick easy pads are nice but I do prefer the light tan Pachmayers or the Sako pads.
 
Joe- Your pad looks pretty good. Is it hard or is there something I am not seeing?. If it is No Bueno just cut off the soft part before you try to use some heat to remove the glued on plate. There will more than likely be a couple screws. When you get the pre-lims done , use a hot hair dryer and blast right at the plate. Once you get the plate good and hot, use a razor knife to start lifting the plate from the wood. A little at a time. Go slow. If it doesn't start, reheat. If you feel you are over your head....let a smith do it. No shame in capitulation. I have done over 30 of the sako pads for myself and others. The kick easy pads are nice but I do prefer the light tan Pachmayers or the Sako pads.
it was hard and crumbling on the other side, I actually work at my local gun store and am workin under the gunsmith when Im not on the sales floor or doing something else. Hes been helping me with the whole process, I actually just got the rest of it off, started with a chisel and a knife to remove the rest of the rubber. Then I took it to a belt sander and knocked it down 90% of the way. The rest I used a small circumference DA sander then the rest very carefully by hand. Turned out good, and after some of yalls recommendations Ill be using the Pachmayers pad the kick eez is nice but ill use it on a different rifle.

How much hand fitting do the pachmayers pads normally need?
 
How much hand fitting do the pachmayers pads normally need?
They come in different sizes. Measure your butt to determine which size is the smallest which will be certain to fully cover the butt. All pads have to be sanded down, and the bulk part is the easiest. It is the final sanding that takes skill and patience. So don't worry so much if the pad is somewhat too large -- that excess goes away quickly with a belt sander and you'll get down to the careful part soon enough.
 
Trying to sand the pad while it's on the stock is not a good plan.
That's true, but not being equipped to do otherwise here's how I do it: I wrap a layer of blue masking tape around the stock adjacent to the pad. Then I top that with a layer of white masking tape, and top that with a layer of green masking tape. As the pad is sanded down to match the stock the layers of tape will, of course, change colors to show you how close you're getting to the wood. Final sanding is done with a finer grit belt lightly skimming the bottom layer of tape -- and with your tongue held very precisely against your cheek. I know -- amateur, but it works. You can also see to match the angle of the toe line of the stock better with it mounted on the stock than held in a jig. (I absolutely hate the look of a pad which is squared off on the bottom.)
 
That's true, but not being equipped to do otherwise here's how I do it: I wrap a layer of blue masking tape around the stock adjacent to the pad. Then I top that with a layer of white masking tape, and top that with a layer of green masking tape. As the pad is sanded down to match the stock the layers of tape will, of course, change colors to show you how close you're getting to the wood. Final sanding is done with a finer grit belt lightly skimming the bottom layer of tape -- and with your tongue held very precisely against your cheek. I know -- amateur, but it works. You can also see to match the angle of the toe line of the stock better with it mounted on the stock than held in a jig. (I absolutely hate the look of a pad which is squared off on the bottom.
This is exactly how I did it.
 
That's true, but not being equipped to do otherwise here's how I do it: I wrap a layer of blue masking tape around the stock adjacent to the pad. Then I top that with a layer of white masking tape, and top that with a layer of green masking tape. As the pad is sanded down to match the stock the layers of tape will, of course, change colors to show you how close you're getting to the wood. Final sanding is done with a finer grit belt lightly skimming the bottom layer of tape -- and with your tongue held very precisely against your cheek. I know -- amateur, but it works. You can also see to match the angle of the toe line of the stock better with it mounted on the stock than held in a jig. (I absolutely hate the look of a pad which is squared off on the bottom.)
I'm not sure exactly where to hold my tongue against my cheek, so I just use a jig. :)! Matches toe angle & shape perfectly. Either you have steadier hands or more courage than I.
 
I'm not sure exactly where to hold my tongue against my cheek, so I just use a jig. :)! Matches toe angle & shape perfectly. Either you have steadier hands or more courage than I.
Maybe I misunderstood lol. So I have access to a jig to shape the pad Id never dream of trying to do it with the Pad on the stock that just sounds way to damn hard. I was even weary to use to much head on the old pad/base plate. Working at a gun store with a master gunsmith has taught me alot of right ways to do stuff and a realization of all the ways ive made mistakes haha
 
Little more info ,Lyman now owns the Pachmayr brand I found the site and it looks like the pad is now called F325. It's suitable for both rifle or shotgun. good luck. Jim
Medium or small on the F325? I have the same rifle model in 270 Win and the original recoil pad is toast. I wanted to use a Decelerator but can find what model/size to use anywhere.
 
The size of the metal frame inside the recoil pad will dictate the size you need. Those dimensions are given on the Pachmayr site so you can compare to your stock butt. Brownell's is another good source for the info, as well as the pad.
 
Pachmayr at one time had the pad sizes specs listed on there web site. If I rember correctly a medium pad will work, perhaps you should give them a call after measuring your rifle to be sure. Good luck with your project. Jim
 

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