New Member from Australia

Discussion in 'New members, please introduce yourselves here!' started by A11swift, Nov 22, 2021.

  1. Bucktote

    Bucktote Well-Known Member

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    Hi fellow Sako Fans,
    Took a friend hunting, He had no rifle so I let him use my Interarms MK X .243. The safety was hard to push off. I stripped it & found the safety adjustment is not working per book instructions. After adjusting according to the instructions it will fire on safe??It looks a lot like a #4 Sako trigger assy. I will not let the rifle out of the safe until I can get a prpoer operating trigger. I bought the rifle in the 1970s new, Hope I can find parts??

     

  2. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    Hi B/T
    I have experience with adjusting these triggers and had this issue during the adjustment phase. They do have to be adjusted in sequence for all 3 adjustments. Whist they are similar, the Mark X has an actual sear adjustment which the Sako #4 doesn't.

    Can you describe or show the instructions you have used?

    Regards, Scott
     
  3. Bucktote

    Bucktote Well-Known Member

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    Hello Mr. Swift!
    The safety became hard to move as I did not use the rifle for a while. I deciced to try to clean it by soaking it in solvent, I followed the instructions in the manual for adjusting the safety, but it seemed to work in reverse instructions. I tried to back off the trigger screw & the head of the slot cracked off one side. The safety is not working as it will dry fire while on safe? I reassembled the action & put the rifle away & tried to find a replacement trigger, so far no luck??I used the rifle for many years. It was fairly accurate. Can't think of any abuse it may have encountered.?? I used the Owners manual instructions that came with the rifle when I bought it new. B/T
     
  4. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    Hi B/T

    I have 2 rifles with these triggers and I have the Interarms booklet as well. I am attaching the process I use which seems to work well, I found it on a New Zealand forum.

    I suppose you know now when an adjustment is tight, if you can turn the nut over the slotted part of the screw it protects it from breaking.

    I trust you find the instructions helpful. I will look for a replacement trigger on some American sites. IMG_1244.JPG

    Scott
     
  5. Bucktote

    Bucktote Well-Known Member

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    Thank you Mr. Swift!
    I will try to follow the instructions & get the trigger assy. to work Also I'll try to find a trigger pull adjustment screw. I have been told a Timiney Mauser 98 trigger will work, but I will try to fix this one first. Many thanks for your help. After thinking about the history of me & this rifle, I remember sitting in the rain many years ago in a thunder storm with this rifle. When I was younger I did some dangerous & foolish things, To kill a deer. Don't know how I survived??
    Gods help for the foolish!! B/T
     
  6. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    Actually the sear engagement on the Sako #4 can be adjusted, if you know how to access the adjustment screw. It is, however, set at the factory & is recommended that one not trifle with it. Not all #4 triggers have the window in the housing that allows one to see the engagement, which makes changing it an even more risky proposition.
     
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  7. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    Thank you, so much to learn about. My gunsmith was not familiar with the Sako trigger and just didn’t feel confident to attempt.

    Are there any diagrams that show the sear adjustment?

    Scott.
     
  8. Branxhunter

    Branxhunter Well-Known Member

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    G'day Scott, welcome to SCC from another Aussie, and what a superb rifle! A HB swift - beautiful! I would love to find and afford a similar one.

    I have a Timney on my L461 .17-222. It took a bit of work to fit - removal of some stock wood, opening up the trigger slot - but no requirement to remove metal from the action itself, and no issues with the trigger dragging once fitted.

    I have a Maddco 3 lever trigger on my .20-222 that also took some fitting to fit, including grinding of the trigger housing itself. Interestingly it came with spacing washers and the fitting instructions refer to some rifles requiring them to be fitted between trigger guard and stock. Mine did, as the trigger dragged horribly without them but worked perfectly once fitted. It's a beautiful trigger.

    Looking forward to see the load development results for you swift.

    Marcus
     
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  9. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    The sear engagement adjustment screw is in the top of the trigger housing & is only visible & accessible if you remove the trigger housing from the action. In over 40 years of working on Sakos I have NEVER felt a need to mess with the sear engagement. The only reason I mentioned it is that if some dingbat messed with it prior to you acquiring a rifle you would know it can be remedied. Otherwise, just leave well enough alone. Playing with the factory set sear engagement on a Sako #4 trigger is a fool's errand & will lead to trouble. If you want a bench rest trigger, get one & leave the factory trigger alone. That's NOT what is was designed to be. The sear engagement is the last of your worries in getting a good trigger pull in a sporting rifle & messing with it will lead to troubles. Just my two cents.
     
  10. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    Hi Marcus

    Thank you for the welcome. From what I have read on this forum the Timney fitting issues are more common on the L579 /A11 as the housing is too long. I encountered every issue the other members described.

    I have heard the Maddco trigger is very good, if you can get one. I like your wildcats, great fox rifles. I mainly have Krico’s in 17Rem, 222 and 22/250, the factory double set triggers are the best triggers I have used.

    Interesting about the spacing washers on the Maddco trigger and the proof is in the pudding, they just work. I also use them on my Interarms 257 Roberts Imp and it shoots great. I believe they work on my 2 rifles as they keep the action and floor plate square to each other and the correct distance apart without distorting the stock, IMO.

    Scott
     
  11. Bucktote

    Bucktote Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mr. Swift,
    I read the instruction sheet you sent & followed the steps, but with no success!
    The safety actuates freely when you loosten the adjustment screw. Away from the trigger, But the gun will fire with the safety in the SAFE position. Not usable like that.
    I am thinking about changing my name on this post to LUCKY. While I lack experience with delicate slotted head screws. I am guilty of poor judgement. I dropped the anchoring trigger set screw while passing by the trash can. It went in the trash or in the heat/A/C floor duct. I went thru the trash 3 times piece by piece & with a magnet!!!. A new Timney # 301 trigger is on the way!!! Many thanks for your help, you Aussie guys are the best!! Hope you all can get over the china virus pandemic soon. God bless & keep you all. B/T
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2021
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  12. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    B/T

    Sounds like the universe is working against you and you certainly can't have an unsafe rifle, but I'm pretty sure you will be happy with the Timney Featherweight Deluxe trigger.

    We now have very high vaccination rates and the country is starting to open up every week as the rates climb higher. Let me know how the trigger goes.

    Scott
     
  13. kevinlg

    kevinlg Well-Known Member

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    Hawkeye........I kindly disagree, about the #4 trigger.

    The trigger sear engagement is between the upper edge of the trigger lever and the slightly angled protruding ledge, of the forward portion of the trigger assemblies' internal sliding sear block.
    The amount of engagement is factory set, and not adjustable, by slightly facing the forward "mid-section" of the vertically sliding sear block. The trigger assembly poundage screw/spring forces the upper portion of the trigger lever against this faced "mid-section" area, thereby establishing engagement.
    If equipped....the over-travel adjustment screw limits the forward motion of the upper portion of the trigger lever upon trigger pull.

    The trigger housings' small top screw only adjusts the angular position of the entire trigger assembly.....held tightly by the upper/front jack screw.
    This small top screw is usually adjusted such that the top of the trigger housing is parallel to the bottom of the receiver. If this screw is adjusted too low.....the "bolt sear" may not disengage from the sliding trigger sear block upon firing. Too high.....and the bolt sear may not even engage the trigger sear block upon bolt closure.
    Note...that on later #4 triggers, the small top screw has been eliminated.....replaced with a fixed raised area/profile on top of the trigger housing.

    Hope this helps.

    It would be easier to explain with moving pictures. :)
     
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  14. Branxhunter

    Branxhunter Well-Known Member

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    Someone with a workshop and machining skill can modify the #4 trigger to enable adjustment of sear engagement between the top of the trigger lever and the falling sear block. It involves milling an oblong slot in the sear block from back to front, and D&T a hole in the back of the trigger housing. The adjustment screw is screwed into this hole, passes through the milled slot in the falling sear block and engages the rear face of the trigger lever. I can't remember how the falling sear block spring fits in or around the adjustment screw though.

    Marcus
     
  15. kevinlg

    kevinlg Well-Known Member

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    Marcus........

    I think I can envision what you describe.
    Even if you can get by the sear block spring problem.....there's the safety. If the rotating safety cylinder is modified, for the "new" trigger lever position, there's less margin for error.....as relates to proper safety operation and trigger pull screw poundage adjustment.

    Things could be a real crap-shoot, with this type of trigger design/operation.

    Interesting subject......
     
  16. Branxhunter

    Branxhunter Well-Known Member

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    Took some photos of the modified trigger

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Marcus
     
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  17. kevinlg

    kevinlg Well-Known Member

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    Marcus....

    Thanks for the pics.
    First one I've ever seen or heard of.

    How was the safety operation addressed......given the new position of the trigger lever?

    (edit: The forward vertical surface of the sliding sear block appears to have been highly modified/re-contoured. Was the sear engagement geometry changed very much?
    Also, is there an estimation as to how much the sear engagement was reduced?)
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2021
  18. Bucktote

    Bucktote Well-Known Member

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    Report Mr. A 11swift
    Hi again , The Timiney trigger came in today and with a little wood removal it does the job!
    Also only two days late, Today I found a new OEM assy. trigger on e-bay. All's well that ends well!!
    All the best B/T
     
  19. A11swift

    A11swift Member

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    B/T
    That’s good and I’m glad it was a fairly straight forward fit.

    Scott
     

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