Mount identification help - Redfield

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Sako parts' started by jimsako, Jul 8, 2019.

  1. jimsako

    jimsako Member

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    Hello,

    I am trying to determine if this receiver was drilled/tapped for these Redfield mounts. I don't see any screws on the mounts and I can't tell how these mounts are connected to the receiver. I believe that these mounts might be compression fitted, but want to be sure. The seller believes that these mounts didn't require tapping/drilling. I am inexperienced with mounting scopes and I have a return window of a few days from now. Do I need to bite the bullet and remove these mounts myself to be sure that there aren't any hidden drill holes? And are they difficult to remove and put them back on? I have spare Sako rings as alternates. These mounts seem to be a good match for the scope clearance. Thanks in advance.



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  2. marlin92

    marlin92 Well-Known Member

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    Redfield mounts just slide on the dovetails and you take a little block of wood and hammer then tap them solidly into place, to get them off tap them from the oposite side. Sometime takes a pretty solid rap to get them off. NO DRILLING/TAPPING REQUIRED.
     
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  3. jimsako

    jimsako Member

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    Thanks, that's what I hoped for. I saw some redfield bases with a set screw that applies pressure to the top of the dovetail and some have a post. Now I'm wondering if these bases might be hiding some ugly drill holes.
     
  4. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    The Sako dovetails are tapered so recoil forces tend to tighten these mounts, so like marlin92 said it can take a pretty good blow to get them off. Some of those type mounts had sets screw, that are totally unnecessary, that would mar the dovetails if used. Some really unknowledgeable (that's the PC word for stupid) people actually drilled into the dovetails & screwed these mounts on. Yours don't appear to have the set screw or to be D&T'd. They work well & can be reinstalled by just driving them back on. Be sure to use a wood or plastic dowel or punch.
     
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  5. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    To get a better fit I would recommend getting a hold of some Sako mounts/rings. The rear mount will have a little tit protruding from the rear of the mount. The tit fits neatly into that little grove machined into the rear dovetail. Alignment should be a breeze.

    rick
     
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  6. jimsako

    jimsako Member

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    The fine checkering on the Sako dovetail is a really nice detail and it's a sad sight to see them drilled. Hammering makes me nervous.
     
  7. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    Use a wooden driver to push the mount off of the dovetail. I have removed many without any issues. Take the scope and rings off first just to make sure there isn't a set screw hidden under there. Can't imagine that there would be but I have seen many unbelievable butcher jobs over the years that I don't like to talk about.

    rick
     
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  8. jimsako

    jimsako Member

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    If I measured right, there is about a 3mm clearance between the objective bell and the barrel with this setup. That looks like a nice fit and the scope seems to line up well for me so far. I have medium Sako ring set to try and a medium leupold too. I think I'll get a wood dowel tomorrow and post an update.
     
  9. Sean Hodges

    Sean Hodges Well-Known Member

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    While you’re at it spritz some penetrating oil between the mounts and dovetails and allow it to work for a while prior to attempting to knock off the mounts. Try and flush it down the sides where the taper is. There may be some crud built up. Also, it’s best to have a padded gun vise to properly secure the rifle as to free up both hands. And if possible a work bench at a proper height. Kitchen counter tops work too.

    I use a hard wood dowel or block (oak or walnut, soft woods will splinter) and have shaped the end so it sort of matches the surface which needs to be struck. Get a good grip on the block. Then use short sharp carefully placed strikes squarely on the block. Take your time between strikes. Re set the block each time prior to each strike. It may take several well placed strikes but they will pop off. Best of luck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
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  10. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    All above advice is spot on. Some of the older Redfield/Burris SDT ("Sako Dove Tail") bases came with a set screw which some people attempted to use to place them somewhere aft of the forward-most position. THIS IS WRONG and will be totally unsatisfactory. Not only will the set screw gouge the delicate checkering on the top of the dovetails, but the bases will also likely move under recoil.

    Properly installed by tapping the base tightly forward on the taper of the dovetail, these bases will never come off (and recoil actually tightens them further). They have to be uninstalled by reversing the process by tapping them rearward, using a hardwood block to safely transfer the impact of the mallet without scarring anything.
     
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  11. jimsako

    jimsako Member

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    To anyone wandering into this thread, I did not remove these bases and rings since I unfortunately found an issue with rifle's condition and returned it.
     

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