• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Lilja barrel fit in my Quad Varmint stock???

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Big Cat Daddy

Active Member
Hello. I could use some help please. I have a wood stock Quad Varmint in 17HMR. I'm wanting to buy a Lilja 22LR barrel for it, preferably the Sandberg taper. Does anyone know how that would fit and look in the varmint barrel channel?
Would you suggest the straight tapered Lilja barrel? Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you,

Jim D
SE Texas
email: [email protected]
 
Jim,
I had a Euro Optics Quad build several years ago that I regret parting with that had the varmint barrel in a Sako varmint stock. I ordered 2 of the Sunberg taper barrels you are talking about from Lilja in a 17hmr and 22mag 18 inches long because I wanted to drop some weight as I walk a lot when hunting. They fit and look real nice in the barrel channel. It is 1 rifle I truly regret ever selling. It is on the top of my list to build another custom quad. If I can find some pictures that I took of the rifle when I sold it I will post them up for you.
 
Yeah it fits fine, i have one it is a bit thicker than the original. I have 3 barrels in .22LR : sako light, sako heavy barrel and the Lilja heavy barrel. Strangely the barrel that gave me the best accuracy is the sako standard (light) barrel !!??? After years of use, I think that a lighter barrel gives less stress on the sako fixture system.
Lilja and Sako heavy barrel are also very accurate when you have found the right ammunition and batches for it (for the Sako the SK, Lapua and also Eley round nose like Eley Club)

The Lilja is as accurate, but more consistant on the point of impact when you change ammunition. I think it is due to the stainless steel and also the smooth finish surface in it. Any good quality ammuniton batches will give you satisfaction. It is also easier to clean than the sako (stainless steel) but this detail is not so important, I almost never clean since cleaning means less accuracy during 50-100 rounds after doing it, depending on the barrel.

When I change barrels, I have to remove the scope only with the Sako light barrel because of the open sights. My rings are a bit too low for this one.

Think also about asking for a moderator thread if you can get it, because later it would be difficult to do find a good enough gunsmith to make one with the same quality.
 
Last edited:
I don't know the particulars on your taper choices, but I have 4 Custom made rifles by Dennis Olson of Plains, Montana. I had him use Lilja barrels on all my rifles and they are from pencil barrel to heavy fluted and seem to work all right...

DSCN4223.JPG
 
That's nice, I'd like to see a pair of those in person someday.
Here are a couple of closer photos. Rifle is a custom L461. As Kirkbridge noted, each ring has 3 parts - 2 vertical halves and a top cap. Each ring is machined so the parts fit together so closely that the seam is barely visible. The top of the line rings also have a screw at the bottom that holds the whole thing together when it is out of the mount. Conetrol has a website that explains the whole thing - just Google Conetrol.
Audette 3.JPG Audette 6.JPG
 
Conetrol has a website that explains the whole thing
That's a little like saying of quantum physics that "Einstein wrote a paper that explains the whole thing." Anyone who has ever mounted a set of Conetrols has experienced a learning curve approximating what one would expect in attempting do-it-yourself heart valve replacement. For those considering using Conetrols on a hunting rifle, I would advise that July is too late in the year to start in order to be certain to be finished by the fall hunting seasons.

Though the mounting process is almost Machievellian, they do make for a beautifully svelte way to mount a scope.
 
That's a little like saying of quantum physics that "Einstein wrote a paper that explains the whole thing." Anyone who has ever mounted a set of Conetrols has experienced a learning curve approximating what one would expect in attempting do-it-yourself heart valve replacement. For those considering using Conetrols on a hunting rifle, I would advise that July is too late in the year to start in order to be certain to be finished by the fall hunting seasons.

Though the mounting process is almost Machievellian, they do make for a beautifully svelte way to mount a scope.
Oh, come on, Stone, it's not THAT bad. Yes, mounting a set of Conetrol rings is a frustrating, time-consuming pain in the wazoo, but it's doable for anyone with a reasonable knowledge and understanding of quantum physics (my other hobby). It does help a lot if you spend the extra money for the rings that have the screw on the bottom to hold them together so the first ring doesn't fall off the scope when you're trying to mount the other ring. It also helps if you have Schrödinger's cat for a helper.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top