L61R Bolt/Firing Pin Re-Assembly question.

[springsrick]

Greetings to all,
I'm a new member. I've owned my L61R S# 50XXXX in 30.06 since the late 70's it has spend most of that time in storage As I was in New York where hunting is done with Shotguns.
I cruised the forum and haven't tumbled on the answer to my question below and I apologize in advance as I bet it is in here somewhere.
I've started my re-familiarization by a good cleaning, and for the first time went to the SAKO.FI website to see if there were tips. The manual there said that end of season service should include include disassembly of the bolt/firing pin. Those instructions were quite clear and in a moment the 2 were separate.
I was glad to clean up a bit of residue and some pretty sticky 30 year old oil.
Now I went back to the instructions and found nothing to give me a clue how to re-assemble the cleaned and lubed bolt and firing pin.
I put the pin into the tube with the lug going into the channel in the bolt but using moderate force (like I remove it with) I can't twist the "tail of the firing pin assy back to "normal" position.
I must be missing something and would appreciate any help on what I missing.
Thanks in advance

 

[Anonymous]

springsrick,
The rear of your bolt needs to be rotated clockwise into the cocked position and then all will line up. Did you get the "tool" to disassemble the bolt? The instructions usually say to put it back together in reverse of how it came apart.
A lot of people advise if you have no experience, to take it to a gunsmith, I don't think it's necessary if you are handy with tools. I wrap the bolt a couple times with a shop towel and very gently apply enough pressure not to put an indentation on the bolt with vise grips (over the towel). I usually do this more toward the rear of the bolt closest to where I'm working. There should be a place with two flat sides to the rear of the bolt handle that you can put a paper towel or cotton rag over to use an adjustable wrench. Carefully get it on so it won't slip and then turn clockwise to get the bolt back into the cocked position. You're done. The bolt will travel freely back into the receiver. Just be careful not to scratch or dent anything. There will be some pressure when returning it to the cocked position.
I have never dented or scratched any of my bolts using this method. It's best to use the factory tool if you still have it.
Welcome to the forum. Glad to have you on board.
S-A

 

[blackjack]

Hello SpringsRick,
Over here in England we can purchase Vice-Grip Moulds for casting lead jaws for vices. They cost about xA325. They can be used for 4inch, 41/2, 5, 51/2, and 6 inch jaws. One of the best tools I have ever purchased. When they get well used just melt down and then you have brand-new grips. Welcome to the forum.
Regards Blackjack AKA Mike {The Limey}

 

[springsrick]

Thanks S-A!
My son just came to the house and I told him of the problem I was having and he picked up the 2 pieces, got the feel of them a bit and compressed the spring bare handed and the assembly is back together
Then he said "what is the problem?"
Hand strength is an asset!
Again Thanks<
Rick

 

[springsrick]

Mike
Sounds very handy to me! I have mostly been seeing plastic or Rubber "jaw liners".
Rick