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L46 L46 22 hornet

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

ronnie schneider

Active Member
I have an L46 in 22 Hornet. I found an old pair of Sako mounts and mounted a Weaver 2.5 using alignment rods. I hand tightened the windage screws. I torqued the ring screws to 15 lbs. When I checked alignment with a Bushnell bore scope it was dead center. I never touched the scope adjustments. Did I miss anything?
 
Some say that the knurled wheel nuts which clamp the base need only hand tightening. I certainly don't over-tighten them, but I like to put a light extra torque on them with a spanner-type driver just to assure they are snug. I've seen the entire base of the rings bowed by using gorilla-force torque on them.
 
The correct spanner for the Sako ring nuts is a Weaver type bit, obtainable from Brownells. I tighten mine a bit past finger tight, but as Stonecreek points out, you need to be careful not to over-tighten.
Scope Ring Tools 6.JPG
 
When you say "pins" are you speaking of the small lug on the underside of the rear ring? If so, that is a positioning mechanism to assure that if the scope is dismounted by loosening the wheel nuts that when remounted it goes back into the same position and therefore very close to the same zero. Some people believe that it is to absorb the force of recoil, but the tapered design of the dovetails makes that unnecessary.

Some scopes have long oculars and/or power adjustment rings. With such scopes it is sometimes necessary to grind the little lug off in order to mount the scope far enough forward for proper eye relief. This negates the re-positioning feature, but does not impact the integrity of the mount.
 
When you say "pins" are you speaking of the small lug on the underside of the rear ring? If so, that is a positioning mechanism to assure that if the scope is dismounted by loosening the wheel nuts that when remounted it goes back into the same position and therefore very close to the same zero. Some people believe that it is to absorb the force of recoil, but the tapered design of the dovetails makes that unnecessary.

Some scopes have long oculars and/or power adjustment rings. With such scopes it is sometimes necessary to grind the little lug off in order to mount the scope far enough forward for proper eye relief. This negates the re-positioning feature, but does not impact the integrity of the mount.
 
This gun was built in 1952. I has an oil finish. Could it be original?
If you'll post some photos we can make a better (though not foolproof) judgment of whether the finish is original. Early Sakos generally used a varnish or lacquer finish; some Sakos which were listed as "oil" by the factory were actually matte lacquer.
 
The "tension pins" ,in the ring bases, help maintain the position/setting of the left-side adjustment nut in it's detents. (Note: I normally apply a very small amount of clear fingernail polish to the left side of the nut's threads.)

This feature helps enable the scope/rings assembly to be removed and remounted without loss of zero..........provided the rear ring positioning stud is properly engaged in the rear receiver ring recess.

Hope this helps.
 
The "tension pins" ,in the ring bases, help maintain the position/setting of the left-side adjustment nut in it's detents. (Note: I normally apply a very small amount of clear fingernail polish to the left side of the nut's threads.)

This feature helps enable the scope/rings assembly to be removed and remounted without loss of zero..........provided the rear ring positioning stud is properly engaged in the rear receiver ring recess.

Hope this helps.
Thank you kevinlg. That clears that up.
 
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