Sako Flaigs 300 Weatherby

Discussion in 'Sako Long/Magnum Actions' started by William Carter, Nov 7, 2020.

  1. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    Having issues with inconsistent primer ignition. Firing pin protrusion seems right on. Pulled apart bolt ,cleaned reassembled. Same problem. It seems like possibly a weak spring. Cold it will fire two rounds. Then just a tiny indention into primer. Pretty sketchy opening bolt on a 300.
    Any suggestions? I would almost rather send it to a sako expert. Factory Hornaday ammo. L61r

     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2020

  2. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    Without a hands on examination it is difficult, if not impossible, to determine the problem. Sakos don't require a "Sako expert" to fix. Any competent gunsmith should be able to remedy the issue. Good Luck!
     
  3. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    Just a thought on why something like this happens. Too often rifles are stored for periods of time (long or short) with the bolt cocked. Over time this weakens the bolt spring and contributes to frequent lite strikes. Rule of thumb should be to discharge the bolt to relieve the spring tension on the firing pin.

    rick
     
  4. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    Thanks, I checked firing pin protrusion and it was. 068 ,which should be plenty. And I'm pretty sure that it is a late 60s gun. Think I read on a post that Wolff makes a spring. That's my next course of action.
     
  5. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    It is possible that the headspace is too generous which will often result in misfires. And, are you shooting factory or reloaded rounds? On a belted magnum it theoretically wouldn't matter, but if the chamber's belt recess is cut too deep then you could experience such a problem.
     
  6. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    Shooting factory Hornaday 180grain Custom ammo. Not sure how to check headspace on this action. Firing pin springs are cheap, and I can change them. Wolff has a 34-38 pound, factory is approximatly 30. Think I'll order one of each. Thanks for the info.
     
  7. ricksengines

    ricksengines Sako-addicted

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    Chasing spooks
     
  8. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    possibly, but the primers show light strikes Very light. I got a bunch of ammo at a great price so that's what I have been trying to shoot. Guess I'll hunt down my genuine weatherby ammo and see what it does. And like I said, the springs are cheap.
     
  9. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    There could be a problem with the spring, but I've never seen it on a Sako. Sako springs are pretty much forever.

    Most gunsmiths will have a "no go" gauge for belted magnums. If the bolt closes on a no go gauge then you can put a spring from a Mack truck in the bolt and you still won't have dependable ignition -- just a heavy bolt lift.
     
  10. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    OK, that helps some. But 300weatherby isn't like a 30-06. And I'm betting that there's not a Gage in 300 miles of me. Thanks for the input. Since it is not a sako barrel thus is a high possibility. Thanks again
     
  11. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    A no-go gauge for all belted magnums (7mm Rem, .300 Win, .270 WBY) is the same. It only measures the space from the bolt face to the end of the belt recess. Nearly any smith who does barrel work should have one.
     
  12. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    OK, now that makes sense. I also have a 257 weatherby vanguard. Wonder if I could compare fired brass side by side. There is a gunsmith in town that probably has one then. Really thank you for that info. I also have a Speer Reloading manual that will give me the dimensions. I have mikes and digital calipers. I'll call him manana. appreciate the info.
     
  13. stonecreek

    stonecreek SCC Secretary Forum Owner SCC Board Member

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    That wouldn't do any good. The dimension that is important is in the chamber of your Flaig's rifle and it is the recess for the belt. That dimension doesn't change when the case is fired.
     
  14. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    So I researched 6-8 different sources, Hornady, Forester, Williams, etcetc. Some say belt some say shoulder. I'm gonna call the Smith and see if he has a Gage and how much he will charge me.
    I can get a field Gage for less than 40bucks. I already have an arm and a leg in this gun and it's not really much fun to shoot. But I don't want to sell it to someone not working properly. It's like that good looking girl left at the bar late, just leave her there, you won't regret it in the morning.
     
  15. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    It's a beautiful gun and has been fired very little. I've got 300+ factory Hornaday rounds, wish someone would just make me an offer for it.
     

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  16. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    Put a .004" brass shim on the back face of your case head. Just a tiny drop of Crazy Glue will hold it there. If you can close the bolt with the shim between the bolt face & the case head either your headspace is too big or the belt on the case is too short. Measure the belt to determine which. Could be a combination of the two. Belted cases are worthless on a case with a shoulder angle greater than 25 degrees, IMHO & you could be experiencing just one of their maladies. Good luck!
     
  17. kevinlg

    kevinlg Well-Known Member

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    Mr. Carter........

    Two things I would try.......

    First......check firing pin spring strength. Remove bolt and de-cock. Place bathroom scales on bench, and press firing pin protrusion onto a small nylon bolt head(or other strong/deformable material). A bit of practice, but you can feel the firing pin move and see the scale pound reading.....at the same time.

    Second.....remove firing pin assembly from the bolt. Cut a fired case in half, and chamber the rear half.......feeling the bolt closing force. Now place one thickness of scotch tape(about 0.004") on the casehead rear, and carefully chamber......should feel slight resistance.

    One more thing.......

    If the above is ok or not...........then compare the shoulder to casehead "headspace" of a fired case to an unfired loaded round.

    Use of the above information should help solve the problem.

    Hope this helps.

    edit: Looks like Hawkeye beat me by 3 minutes. :)
     
  18. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    OK. This sounds easy enough. I have a feeler Gage set that I can trim a piece off of. Thanks
     
  19. William Carter

    William Carter Member

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    Head space is. 003-.006. It's got to be the spring. Ordered both the 34# and 38#. It's hard as hell to cock anyways. I'm going to measure all springs for length and pressure before I reassemble bolt. Glad this is the only Sako that I own. FNs are waaay better.
     
  20. paulsonconstruction

    paulsonconstruction Sako-addicted

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    And there has never been a FN action that ever had a mechanical issue? You came here for help & advice & revealed your very limited knowledge about bolt action rifles by the questions you asked. Then proceeded to tell us that FN's are WAY better than Sakos. I didn't see a single "Thank You" in any of your post! Bye! BTW, your rifle is not a factory Sako, but a custom rifle built by "who knows" so, who do you blame for it having "problems".
     

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