I have been looking for a light weight cast bullet mould (around 100gr) for some time, unsuccessfully! Is there anybody here using cast projectiles in the 7x33? I have bought a new Lee mould in 130gr and am intending cutting the gas check groove off of it to get the weight down. I will be using Vihtavuouri Tin Star (32C) powder to start with but might try their 110 powder later on. Any advice will be most gratefully received.
6 percent antimony cast at .2875. Waiting for sizer-lubricator and top punch. At 65 grains and cast hard like this it shouldn't need a gas check at 7x33 velocity
I could probably use that Lee spray lube to try until I get the tools for my sizer-lubricator. I collected this rifle in reverse. Somebody sold me a coffee can full of bullets, casings and a handset to reload. 20 years later I have the rifle after accumulating a lifetime of components and converting a mould. I guess it's not the mountain for me but the climb. Now I just have to shoot it. I have put a box of factory ammo through-it so far and even at 25 below zero celsius it never ceases to amaze me at just how accurate it is!
OK, I have 13 good bullets cast out of the lee mold and have coated them with LEE Liquid Alox. I have to let this dry overnight. hopefully I will have time this weekend to try them but it is really cold-out. I will put them in the Bertram cases as they are new and shouldn't need re-sizing. I will be able to keep track this way as all of my Sako brass start-out loaded. I also have 50 Berdan primed cases and about 200 berdan primers so I will load only my FMJ projectiles in them so I won't have them mixed in with the boxer primed stuff. I wanna Kick it out oldschool with the berdan cases and the reloading hand tool set I have.
loaded 3 Bertram brass cases and researched 65 grain data for the .25-20. Since the 7x33 bore and case volumes slightly larger the pressure will be a little less. Winchester small rifle primer and 6.0 grains of Unique gave me about an inch at 25 yards but printed about an inch lower than the factory round. It is a start and pretty good for 25 below celsius. Bertram brass shows variation in shoulder location and are hard to close on, maybe my headspace is tight. SAKO ammo goes pretty smooth. I thought at first maybe it was tight at the neck with the .287 bullet but the cases are marked at the shoulder. Empty , unfired Bertram are hard to close on.
I need a charge to fill the case better. I have a short action and magazine, and have to seat below the crimping groove. If mine were a later L46, after the .222, I could crimp into the groove. When I shortened the mould, I had an L46 in .222 I was going to convert so the bullet length was optimal for the crimping groove. If I could find a powder to compress a little then I wouldn't need to crimp.
when you take the mould apart to put it in the 4-jaw chuck of the lathe, just be sure your finish passes feed from the inside-out and you will have minimal burr to deal with. Also you will need to deepen and re-tap the sprue plate hole a bit. it is #10-32 I think, needing a #28 0r 29 tap drill if I remember correctly.
Sit .Rep.- retested 6.0 grains unique-3 rounds tested 6.5 grs. unique with 65 grain cast-3 rounds tested 7 grains unique with 65 grain cast-3 rounds really too cold out to get a conclusive test, but 6 grains seemed the most consistent group. I will cast some more and re-test when it is warmer. original SAKO rounds used as a control had 1 failure so it was really cold. -15 with a wind chill of -25. Reminds me of Polar Bear watch with the Canadian Rangers, you really notice the temp difference as the sun goes down.
Every Bertram case has to be cammed in before loading. It is kind of a nuisance but will prevent case head separation because headspace is zero. Kinda like a Garand in battery.
bought bertram cases for my 1st 7x33. had the same issue, could not close the bolt on them. measured against some old sako factory rnds found the solid head was a few thou over size, the rock chucker sorted them out. ps used new super simplex fl die. susanna
Right-on, thanks. I don't have a 7/8-14 die set yet and have been doing it with my SAKO handset. It is quite rewarding. I have a small pill press that I am going to adapt rather than the copper bar I have been hammering with.
