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1950 Sako .222 with Safety Problems

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Dwight Christen

Active Member
Sako 222 Before Scope Replacement 021.jpg Sako 222 Before Scope Replacement 025.jpg Sako 222 Before Scope Replacement 029.jpg Sako 222 Before Scope Replacement 047.jpg

Hello to all the Sako experts in this forum. I am attempting to mount a new scope and to repair a failing safety on my Dad's old Sako 222. I think it was manufactured around 1950, and has a serial number of 8914 on both the barrell and the bolt. It is marked "SAKO Riihimaki N: o8914" and with the funny stamp right behind the serial number. The bolt number was hand engraved "8914".

The pictures show some details, and I need to disassemble the safety and would like an expert to give me some directions. As seen in the pictures, there is a plate on one side (where the red button pops out when the safety is engaged), and on the other side is the safety lever button. Currently it is sticking and almost impossible to engage. There is a very small pin holding this lever button in place. Do I tap out this roll pin in order to slide the shaft out through the other side?

Any advice would be highly appreciated.

Also, the scope that you see in the picture is original. Does anyone know if Sako ever sold these rifles with scopes already attached, or does this old scope appear to be something added by the dealer back in the early 1950s?

Thanks to all.
Dwight
Virginia, USA
 
Hello Dwight and Welcome! Your dads old L46 safety may just need a good soaking, you could even try to use compressed air (Lightly) after soaking it. 60+ years of crud can make them sticky. The safety is rather stiff even when clean and proper, as it actually cams the firing pin away from the sear. That little half moon plate with the push pin...I have always been scared of what all will fly out of there (springs, spiders, etc.) so haven't taken one of yet. I supposed one could gently press the pin and ease the little plate up just enough to spray some solevent into the shroud. (just an idea) Of course if in doubt and it fails to make the rifle safe, take it to a qualified smith.

The scope that is on your gun looks like an old Weaver K10...They were quite the buzz back in their time, I have one just like it on a L46 (58) and it is remarkably clear and accurate. To my knowledge Sako, as a norm, did not include scopes with their rifles, but I also have seen some limited edition Sako's that included scopes, ammo, and cleaning kits. I also just noticed you have the old style Sako low single clamp rings, it will be hard to mount a modern gas filled scope on those rings, as they were designed so that the scope bells were removed and the rings would slide directly over the tube. If your old Weaver is still clear and sound, it will surprise you as to how well it can do. I took a big Red Headed Woodpecker off the side of an old den tree once with mine at about 140 yds with a kneeling rest. It can be a very accurete set up, plus it is period correct, which tends to satisfy the soul, of some...myself included.

There will be more folks, good folks, that will chime in with even better suggestions than mine. You will see!
Man ..I love an old rifle, Yours has some really nice figure and character in the stock, and it should print little cloverleafs with just about everything! Great Looking rifle!~Bloo
 
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Howdy Bloo........and thanks for your quick reply.

I tried the soaking trick, and then applied some light lube........and that did help as the old oil/grease had really gotten stiff. However, the safety is still almost impossible to work, and I think that if I can disassemble this critter, then I can find the problem and hopefully resolve it. Yes, I am a bit leary of attacking this safety, but with the right guidence I will give it a try. I hope someone has a shop diagram or schematic that details how this is properly removed. At first I thought that the "half-moon" cover would slide downward to expose the inner workings. But upon further examination, the minature roll-pin holding the safety button on may have to be removed. It is really perplexing engineering here, and I dont want to break anything.

Thats cool that you have a scope just like this one on a 58 L46......an old Weaver K10. Someday I may have to try to restore this old scope, but right now it seems to be a bit cloudy on the inside........and thus the upgrade to a new scope.

Thanks for the nice comments on this old piece of history. Hey.....any idea what year serial number 8914 would have been made?

See ya.
dwight
 
There are quite a few L46 guru's here, they'll be along shortly...I think there is a diagram somewhere here in the furom pages because I remember this topic coming up before....lemme see what I can dig up...mean while, try the search engine...you may find it before I do!~Bloo
 
Common problem. Usually helped by a disassembly of the bolt/safety mechanism & a good cleaning, but they can be stiff & hard to operate even if cleaned to perfection. They block the firing pin & to engage must overcome the spring pressure of the firing pin when cocked. Too long of an explanation to describe the disassembly process here, but that info is available here & on line. If you don't have the proper tools, vise, & knowledge I recommend having a competent gunsmith disassemble, clean & check things. The bolt is not easy to reassemble without the proper tools. Polishing the camming surfaces of the safety & firing pin notch will help it be easier to operate. Sometimes rotating the firing pin 180 degrees helps improve things. The roll pin does not have to be removed to disassemble. That whole piece (safety lever) will come out after you remove the cocking piece & firing pin.
 
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Paulsonconstruction.....Thanks for that information. Very good info knowing that the roll pin does not have to be removed to disassemble. So, I first must remove the cocking piece and firing pin.....then the safety lever will come out. I looked around the site here for the information, but cant seem to find it.....can you direct me to the right location? I am a pretty decent mechanic (did my 27 Nash rebuild, with missing parts that I had to be "creative" at making), so hopefully a diagram will get me through this vintage Sako repair.

Yep.....I bet the camming surfaces are a bit worn, and some polishing could greatly improve it.........and I like your idea of rotating the firing pin 180 degrees.......as long as it doesnt make the bullet fire 180 degrees in the wrong direction.....ouch! ha ha

dwight christensen (paulson/christensen.....both have Danish roots)
 
You have to put the safety lever halfway between on & off with the bolt removed & in the cocked position before the bolt can be disassembled. Placing bolt in a padded vise & pulling back on the cocking piece will help you to find this "position". Then you can turn the cocking piece/safety mechanism/firing pin out of the bolt body. Further disassembly requires you to compress the firing pin spring which allows you to take the separate the safety block, firing pin, & cocking piece. Spring pressure is severe & if you "slip" up parts will go flying. I'll see if I can find a detailed explanation on line.
 
Hi Dwight and welcome to the forum. Your father had good tastes in rifles! These little riihimaki are a neat little package. I've just posted a guide for disassembly of the riihimaki right hand safety bolt like you have. See http://www.sakocollectors.com/forum...aki-L46-Bolt-Disassembly-A-step-by-step-guide
hopefully it helps you. Paulson has given you some great advice above and hopefully this gets your safety working! Let us know how it goes!

Cheers John
 
Paulson.......Thanks again, and I was following your instructions just fine.....Then I found the next reply from topgear (John), and his 4 page instructions with pictures is a true work of art......a masterpiece! Now I can attack this old safety mechanism without worrying about doing something foolish.
 
Cheers mate....Howdie to the Aussie who composed the most amazing instruction guide for disassembly of the safety bolt. Like I told Paulson, you created a real work of art, a true masterpiece! I think Sako should hire you as a engineering consultant and pay you an absurd amount yearly as their consultant. Thanks ever so much for taking the time to create this and post it for all of us. Now I will not be sweating bullets trying to tinker with something which I had no clue about......now it should be a cake-walk. I will definately let you know how my tinkering goes, maybe zap a few more pics of the process

By the way, is there a chart within this club that gives serial numbers and the year the Sako was made? I am still curious as to my dad's 222, serial number 8914. Maybe 1952?

dwight
 
Sako 222 Bolt Disassembly 002.jpg

Just a quick update......Got the bolt dis-assembled, and here is a pic of all the parts cleaned and ready for oil and to go back together. More detailed information can be found at the link called "Riihimaki L46 Bolt Disassembly - A step by step guide", created by TopGear.

After getting her back together, I will post the results of my work.

Thanks/Kiitos
dwight
 
The .222 is coming out fine......finally got the wascully safety working properly and a new scope attached and laser bore sighted. I also have a bipod to mount where the front sling mount is located.

Now I have a new question: What is the proper technique to unscrew this sling mount so as to install the bipod? Under a magnifying glass, I see a very small roll-pin going through it. Do I need to tap out the roll pin and then attempt to unscrew the sling mount, or do I need to remove the entire wood stock in order to get to the other side of it?

Thanks for all input again.
 
Upon further inspection, it appears that this minute roll-pin goes through the center of the metal "loop" that holds the leather strap in place. I think the roll pin keeps the "loop" centered so it does not shift from side to side.

I also found the Sako Finland website that has a bunch of schematics and owners manuals for their newer rifles and some of the older ones (seems to go back to about 1960). Based on their drawings, it appears that these "sling mounts" are only wood screws going into the wood stock. I tried turning it counter-clockwise some, but at only 1/8 of a turn, it seems to have too much resistance, and I dont want to break anything. I will wait for some expert advice from the experts here.

Thanks.
Kiitos
 
Dwight
I would remove the stock from the metal and unscrew the original sling mount, from under the barrel, to replace with a uncle mikes type.
any mods to the original will be a shame over a few dollar part.
also place some small washers under the screw, to increase the distance from the stud hole to the timber, so the bipod fixing clamp, clears the wood when fitted
L-46
 
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L46.......So I suppose the drawings I saw are not totally accurate, and that you cannot just turn counter-clockwise and unscrew the sling mount without removing the entire stock? Is there a nut or something holding the screw on the inside?

I will definately keep the sling mount to reinstall in the future as I also want to keep the fine old Sako as original as possible. I just want to scare the groundhogs as I walk around the back 40 with the bipod attached to the Sako 222. The word within the grounhog community is that I have a bayonette attached and will be coming to get them.
Where do I find the "Uncle Mikes" sling mounts?
dwight
 
Ok I know this is bringing this thread back from the dead but I can’t seem to
remove the small plate from the safety housing. I have tried the instructions
Topgear posted but I’m not having any luck I must be missing something.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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