• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Sako Scope Ring Tips (Use the proper tools)

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

I wish Brownells had a speedier delivery method.. at a more reasonable cost.. I don't mind paying for 2-day delivery when an item costs >$100 but it hurts when the item costs 4 bucks! Now I can't wait to get a 340-4...

"Oh oh the Wells Fargo wagon is a coming down the street; I hope that it's coming to me..."
Amazon has raised everybody's expectations. Personally, I can wait a few days for most anything, although I do confess I'm like a kid on December 23 when I've bought a gun online and I'm waiting for it to get to my transfer FFL.

And I like the quote from "Music Man." You're dating yourself, though - that was my father's favorite show and he was born in 1926. The Wells Fargo Wagon also reminds me of an e-mail group of military surplus rifle collectors I belonged to at the dawn of the Internet age. There was a constant stream of "BBT posts" - i.e. postings of what they had just gotten from the Big Brown Truck (UPS).
 
Ice bear, do you have any experience with the Leupold Quick Release system for Sako rifles? I have a 700 clone and an FN Mauser and love the system. It holds zero perfectly, and it allows me to store and transport my rifles and scopes separately. I’d like the same setup for my newly acquired AV, but am concerned about marring up the dovetails. I already have Optilocks in hand, but would prefer to go with the Leupold QR set up if you or anyone else has positive experience with them.
 
Ice bear, do you have any experience with the Leupold Quick Release system for Sako rifles?
Sorry, I do not. I do have Warne QR rings on an L61R Mannlicher carbine. These are very simple, solid, and have a good return to zero. They index with tabs on the ejection port. Unfortunately Warne no longer makes QR rings for Sako, but they can often be found on eBay or Gunbroker.
AIII Carbine 30-06 2.JPG
 
Here's one more Sako scope ring tool, in addition to the ones I've already posted.

Happily, the "Wells Fargo Wagon" finally appeared (Brownell's 340-04 was on backorder... grrrrr) and I'm back in business. Here's my bit: I do suggest making the gap 0.18" instead of 0.16"; 0.16" just barely fits over my screws.

Brownells 340-04 Sako Bit.jpg
 
Happily, the "Wells Fargo Wagon" finally appeared (Brownell's 340-04 was on backorder... grrrrr) and I'm back in business. Here's my bit: I do suggest making the gap 0.18" instead of 0.16"; 0.16" just barely fits over my screws.

View attachment 20138
Glad it's working out for you. Making the opening a couple of hundredths bigger is just fine; I made the original by eyeball anyway. That's pretty much within the margin of error for measurement. And thanks for posting a photo of your version; it will be a help for others. Apparently there is some pent-up demand for this tool. There are at least a couple more guys making them. I'm glad I could provide a prototype.
 
Looks good. Nice job of squaring up the notch.

Cheers icebear.
It’s nice to have a factory made tool for the job that’s for sure, but quite often they are not readily available.
The improvised washer allows for plenty of control, no slipping, when snugging up those nuts.
 
mate, this is too simple.
love the stock on your L46.
never been able to find a decent L46 with a checkered beech stock. what cal is this one.
susanna

Susanna, thanks for the comments.

This one is a .17AH medium H/B.
The stock is actually a well executed custom.
 
Susanna, thanks for the comments.

This one is a .17AH medium H/B.
The stock is actually a well executed custom.

Sounds like a rifle worthy of its own thread (hint, hint). I reckon a little .17AH would be terrific. I have a few boxes of .22h brass on the shelf for one day.

Great problem solve with the washer too.

Marcus
 
Susanna, thanks for the comments.

This one is a .17AH medium H/B.
The stock is actually a well executed custom.

deersako. stock is beautiful, i should have looked harder lol
wood threw me, just a natural look for an wing L46, built here in aust ?
been down the 17ah road, ended up putting the am 22 ht barrel back in & bought a cz 527 17 hornady
hind site tells me i should have just had the chamber recut. both great little rnds hornady a lot easier.
susanna
 
deersako. stock is beautiful, i should have looked harder lol
wood threw me, just a natural look for an wing L46, built here in aust ?
been down the 17ah road, ended up putting the am 22 ht barrel back in & bought a cz 527 17 hornady
hind site tells me i should have just had the chamber recut. both great little rnds hornady a lot easier.
susanna

Yes Susanna, built here by Peter Kay in Dubbo about ‘91, Tobler barrel. Not sure who did the stock, but a very good job with a heavier forend to suit the barrel weight.

I’m using the .17H brass now, one pass through the Ackley FL die and life is good.
 
Here’s my attempt to duplicate icebear’s screwdriver blade for the vintage Sako scope mount adjustment nut. It was my first use of a Dremel tool, and so the result is very far from perfect. Most of the work was done with needle files. The bit is Brownells 340-4, which seemed just a little too thick for the slot in the nut (and was a little thicker than the .035” claimed by Brownells), and so I filed it down to about .037”. It now slips into the slot (albeit tightly) and reaches the bottom of the slots on both sides of the stud. Despite the aesthetic shortcomings, it works!:)
CMgYkn3.jpg

VYtyEKZ.jpg
 
Congratulations, you've got yourself a functioning tool that you made yourself. A good feeling, isn't it? The important thing is that it works - you can always improve the appearance later, if you feel so inclined.

I'm happy and gratified that my little project has filled a need among several of our forum members.
 
So, for a total beginner to vintage Sakos ... Am I right in thinking the following:
1) the windage nut and the big round nut should only be finger tightened?
2) and tools are only needed if the nuts are stuck or the threads are damaged?
3) and so there is no torque setting for the windage and big nuts other than finger tight?

And lastly, how tight should the scope ring screws be (torque setting)?
 
So, for a total beginner to vintage Sakos ... Am I right in thinking the following:
1) the windage nut and the big round nut should only be finger tightened?
2) and tools are only needed if the nuts are stuck or the threads are damaged?
3) and so there is no torque setting for the windage and big nuts other than finger tight?

And lastly, how tight should the scope ring screws be (torque setting)?
The windage nut should be adjusted with fingers, as you only do the adjustment when the large nut is loosened. The large round nut should be snugged down with the Weaver-type bit as pictured on page 1 of this thread. Not too tight, but snug enough that it's not going to move. If you overtighten the large nut, you can bend the threaded shaft. Get yourself the Weaver bit from Brownells or wherever; a regular screwdriver will bugger the slot.

I don't use a torque wrench for the mounting nut. As for the ring screws, I usually just tighten them carefully by feel, alternating from one side to the other and only tightening a little bit at a time, until it feels right. If you're using a torque driver, the paperwork with it should have a setting for 6-48 screws, which are similar in size to the M3.5 used on Sako rings. Once again, the idea is to get them nice and snug, but not so tight that there's danger of stripping the threads or snapping the screw. My shop is in another building and I don't have the torque spec handy.
 
If you're using a torque driver, the paperwork with it should have a setting for 6-48 screws, which are similar in size to the M3.5 used on Sako rings. Once again, the idea is to get them nice and snug, but not so tight that there's danger of stripping the threads or snapping the screw. My shop is in another building and I don't have the torque spec handy.
The typical torque recommendation for 6-48 scope ring screws--across different makes of rings--is 17-20 in.-lbs. The specific recommendation re Sako ring screws (this for Optilock rings, but should apply equally to the vintage rings) is 17-22 in.lbs. And don't use thread-locker on the ring screws.
 
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The windage nut should be adjusted with fingers, as you only do the adjustment when the large nut is loosened. The large round nut should be snugged down with the Weaver-type bit as pictured on page 1 of this thread. Not too tight, but snug enough that it's not going to move. If you overtighten the large nut, you can bend the threaded shaft. Get yourself the Weaver bit from Brownells or wherever; a regular screwdriver will bugger the slot.

I don't use a torque wrench for the mounting nut. As for the ring screws, I usually just tighten them carefully by feel, alternating from one side to the other and only tightening a little bit at a time, until it feels right. If you're using a torque driver, the paperwork with it should have a setting for 6-48 screws, which are similar in size to the M3.5 used on Sako rings. Once again, the idea is to get them nice and snug, but not so tight that there's danger of stripping the threads or snapping the screw. My shop is in another building and I don't have the torque spec handy.


Thank you for your clear directions! Very appreciative of this forum - without the collective wisdom of all of you good people I would be totally stuck!
I'm setting up an old Sako Vixen L461 .222 and have a nice restored Pecar scope and the original Sako rings. Need to target foxes that have been taking poultry on the property. Cheers from Australia! Jim
 

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