• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Recent purchase / L461 .222 Rem Mag

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Stephen Cea

Well-Known Member
Picked this up from my FFL on Friday...L461 Bofors barrel in .222 Rem Mag. Not the easiest deal I ever made but I think it's worth the trouble.I cleaned up the action and applied two coats of Renaissance wax that really brought back the shine. I ordered Redding dies and Nosler brass and look forward to working up accurate loads. Any feedback on load data that shoots will be appreciated. Regards, Steve
zGS3Dca.jpg
qbUYUFh.jpg
b0XzcVs.jpg
bKNMCjH.jpg
dVCBl5X.jpg
 
I have a few of them, we finished an article on the 222 Mag just a couple months ago for "Handloader" magazine. Here is the data, I however just shoot 40 grain V-Max bullets with 28 grains of H335 and find it wrecks a lot of varmints in southwest Montana. My rifle on the bottom of page 54 is a close twin to that of yours, a real nice old Bofors heavy barrel with the double border on the checkering and of course the grip cap...


222 magnum article  a.jpg 222 magnum article b.jpg 222 magnum article c.jpg 222 magnum article d.jpeg 222 magnum article e.jpg 222 magnum article f.jpg
 
I've got one like that. It's very fussy about ammo, but quite accurate with the only factory load it seems to like, the 50 grain Nosler. That's a very hard-to-find, limited production item; I got mine from Midway. I don't have time for reloading these days, but I do have dies and one of these days I'll try one of Kirk's loads. Back when I was loading for that caliber, I tried several different loads without much luck. The Nosler factory load is, to date, the only ammo that my L461 heavy barrel in .222 Magnum will shoot with sub-MOA accuracy.

L461-222MagHB-1.JPG Sako 222 Mag HB001.jpg
 
Great information and beautiful rifles, Thanks! I will print this and use it as a guide for future reference. I am waiting on components and Sako med rings for a B&L 6-24x40 that I put aside for optics....Then the fun will begin! I will keep the group posted on my progress.

Regards,
Steve
 
Great gun! You'll enjoy it.

Venturino's loads for Kirk's rifle are very conservative. The .222 Magnum has about 5% more case capacity than the .223, so you can typically use .223 loading data as a starting place since there is much more data with recent powders for the .223 than the .222 Magnum.

H335 that Kirk uses is an excellent powder for the .222 Magnum. It, and its surplus equivalent (WC 844) are the only powders I've used in my Sako .222 Mag HB until very recently. I came across some H-4198 at a bargain and found that, although this powder is generally on the fast side for the round, it works great with the light 40 grain bullets. But there are many, many powders which do well in it like the 4895's and clones and anything designed for the .223.
 
Something to keep in mind when reloading.....Hot loads don't necessarily produce MOA accuracy. Over the years I have found that moderate loads seem to produce tighter groups than hotter loads.

If you are using Ackley's loads keep in mind that Parker consistently published load data that was always at least 5% to 10% above max load as compared to other loading manuals.

When I'm working up a load I always produce multiple loads using the same bullet, powder and primers usually I start just below the mid range load data for a specific powder and bullet and work up progressive loads that are 2.5 grains apart. In addition, I keep the firing to a minimum by waiting at least 5 minutes between shots so the barrel doesn't heat up as that can have a profound effect on accuracy between shots.

You should always weigh bullets and group like weight bullets so they are used in groups when loading. You would be amazed at the differences in bullet weights within the same batch of bullets. Those minor variances in weight can play havoc with accuracy.

rick
 
Last edited:
Something to keep in mind when reloading.....Hot loads don't necessarily produce MOA accuracy. Over the years I have found that moderate loads seem to produce tighter groups that hotter loads.

If you are using Ackley's loads keep in mind that Parker consistently published load data that was always at least 5% to 10% above max load as compared to other loading manuals.

When I'm working up a load I always produce multiple loads using the same bullet, powder and primers usually I start just below the mod range load data for a specific powder and bullet and work up progressive loads that are 2.5 grains apart. In addition, I keep the firing to a minimum by waiting at least 5 minutes between shots so the barrel doesn't heat up as that can have a profound effect on accuracy between shots.

You should always weigh bullets and group like weight bullets so they are used in groups when loading. You would be amazed at the differences in bullet weights within the same batch of bullets. Those minor variances in weight can play havoc with accuracy.

rick
I agree with every word of that.
 
Load to the Max and you get Max size groups....Over forty years on a reloading bench has taught me that too.
 
Something to keep in mind when reloading.....Hot loads don't necessarily produce MOA accuracy. Over the years I have found that moderate loads seem to produce tighter groups than hotter loads.

If you are using Ackley's loads keep in mind that Parker consistently published load data that was always at least 5% to 10% above max load as compared to other loading manuals.

When I'm working up a load I always produce multiple loads using the same bullet, powder and primers usually I start just below the mid range load data for a specific powder and bullet and work up progressive loads that are 2.5 grains apart. In addition, I keep the firing to a minimum by waiting at least 5 minutes between shots so the barrel doesn't heat up as that can have a profound effect on accuracy between shots.

You should always weigh bullets and group like weight bullets so they are used in groups when loading. You would be amazed at the differences in bullet weights within the same batch of bullets. Those minor variances in weight can play havoc with accuracy.

rick
Load to the Max and you get Max size groups....Over forty years on a reloading bench has taught me that too.
Great information and I agree for the most part. I also start my load development on the low side keeping everything the same (powder, OAL, bullet, primer) but keep the up charge increments closer in weight.
As far as max load just about everything I reload for .222, .243, 6mm br, 6mm dasher, .22ppc, .260 is it that middle load range. Admittedly I am no bench rest shooter but in my experience there have been a couple of exceptions. Currently I am working up loads on a Riihimaki .222 purchased last year (H4198, Fed 205, 50 gr Sierra Blitz set back about ten thousands) taking breaks between 3 shot groups. My groups have gotten tighter as I worked up to and through Sierra and Hornady load data with the brass or primers showing no pressure signs. Having said all that I will continue to try different combos of powder / bullets (although V133 and 50 gr V Max were a no go) fully realizing that summer temps while varmint shooting will play havoc with pressure.
Thanks again for the input!
 
. Currently I am working up loads on a Riihimaki .222 purchased last year (H4198, Fed 205, 50 gr Sierra Blitz set back about ten thousands) taking breaks between 3 shot groups. My groups have gotten tighter as I worked up to and through Sierra and Hornady load data with the brass or primers showing no pressure signs.
For whatever reasons, the SAAMI pressure standards for both the .222 and .222 Magnum are several thousand PSI below those for the .223 -- even though all share the same basic case and there is no difference in the strength of their brass. Reloading manuals necessarily reflect this lower pressure standard in their data. I've found that both the .222 and .222 Magnum perform better -- not only in terms of velocity but also in accuracy -- when loaded nearer to .223 pressures. Certainly in a modern turnbolt like a Sako L46, L461, or successors there is no hazard in loading either of these rounds to .223 pressures. As always, let common sense (and a dependable chronograph) be your guide, but boosting the velocities of a .222 Magnum to match those of a .223 will typically result in a slightly lower chamber pressure than the .223 and better accuracy than if loaded to lower velocities.
 
The 222 mag is perhaps, the most unknown and underrated varmint cartridge made. It will eclipse everything the 223 is known for and many aren’t aware of it’s inherent accuracy. It is my favorite varmint cartridge and I am not short on any of the classic workhorse cartridges, as I have intentionally avoided the modern tendency to try to improve cartridges that are utopian.

I also have found the Swarovski Z5 3.5-18X44 to be the best scope for varminting. With a ballistic turret and 4W reticle, it has no peer on the prairie dog fields,,,

BEC460AF-D3B4-4D90-AD16-409FD46BCBAF.jpeg
 
The above photo just brings a big smile to my face :)....I don't own any 1" Swarovski but have a "Few" in the form of Z6 5-30x50 all with the BT option as well as several PH'S with TDS reticles.....Pdogs must fear you !!
 
The above photo just brings a big smile to my face :)....I don't own any 1" Swarovski but have a "Few" in the form of Z6 5-30x50 all with the BT option as well as several PH'S with TDS reticles.....Pdogs must fear you !!

The Z5, truly is the best all round scope you can get. The Z6 is a bit too big, although bench shooting prairie dogs doesn’t require a light rig. However, I have the Z6 BR on my 300 Weatherby as I got it before the Z5’s. Had I known about the Z5, I would have gone for it. I did have a Schmidt and Bender on the 300 before I got the Z6, and I don’t think I have any less scope with the Swarovski.

I may have overdid it with the Swarovski scopes though...
3A12454F-1E52-4EC7-8BAC-B04F0B90B590.jpeg
 
I don't believe you've "Overdone it" by any stretch....I might be able to go scope for scope with you and also through in some Kahles, S&B, German Zeiss and a bunch of made in Japan B&L's :) !
 

Latest posts

Back
Top