Copper fouling

[Kodiak Kid]

I've been hunting for my second bear and it's been raining pretty much since the season opened on Oct 25. I wipe my rifle down after every day of wet hunting and give it a minute shot of royal purple down the bore after the rifle drys to room temperature. I noticed last time I cleaned it after a little range time there was what I thought was rust in the muzzle. I took a closer look and realized it was copper. I swabbed and swabbed with what I thought was good copper solvent (Pro Shot) that's worked great on all my other firearms. Finally gave up. I switched up ammo for bear season so I of course went to the range again and after less than twenty rounds I swabbed and swabbed and swabbed. With patches and brushes still cant get the copper off the lans of the rifling. I think not more than a couple inches down the bore from the muzzle but Im not sure. Any suggestions or advice. It hasn't seemed to affect accuracy yet. Still holding 1" to 1 1/4" groups at 100 yards with 250gr Swift A-Frames. I'm just afraid it's still not good for the copper to be in the bore. I dont let the barrel get hot. Always let it cool between three shot groups. I Can usually dial it in, in no more than three groups and swabbed the bore after every shooting session. Weather range time or hunting. I Just cant seem to get the copper fouling out.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I've been hunting for my second bear and it's been raining pretty much since the season opened on Oct 25. I wipe my rifle down after every day of wet hunting and give it a minute shot of royal purple down the bore after the rifle drys to room temperature. I noticed last time I cleaned it after a little range time there was what I thought was rust in the muzzle. I took a closer look and realized it was copper. I swabbed and swabbed with what I thought was good copper solvent (Pro Shot) that's worked great on all my other firearms. Finally gave up. I switched up ammo for bear season so I of course went to the range again and after less than twenty rounds I swabbed and swabbed and swabbed. With patches and brushes still cant get the copper off the lans of the rifling. I think not more than a couple inches down the bore from the muzzle but Im not sure. Any suggestions or advice. It hasn't seemed to affect accuracy yet. Still holding 1" to 1 1/4" groups at 100 yards with 250gr Swift A-Frames. I'm just afraid it's still not good for the copper to be in the bore. I dont let the barrel get hot. Always let it cool between three shot groups. I Can usually dial it in, in no more than three groups and swabbed the bore after every shooting session. Weather range time or hunting. I Just cant seem to get the copper fouling out.

I forgot to mention that the rifle is chambered in .338 WM

 

[RifleNutPPC]

Dan Newberry from BangSteel.com says don't clean out the copper. Says it is not necessary to get it out, and it won't affect the accuracy of the rifle. Mr. Newberry teaches long range rifle shooting and knows what he's talking about.

 

[paulsonconstruction]

All bores will have copper in them if fired with a jacketed bullet that contains copper. You will never get all the copper out, nor should you. Some copper is a good thing as it fills all the tool marks & imperfections in the bore making it smoother. It's excess copper fouling that builds up in the rifling that can cause loss of accuracy. If you are getting the same accuracy as before it's probably just a cosmetic thing. If you changed bullets the jacket material may be slightly different & leave more copper behind or just be more visible. If you want to get the copper out use some WipeOut. It comes in a spray foam or in a bottle that you apply with a patch. It chemically dissolves carbon & copper & will not harm the barrel steel. You can let it soak overnight without worry. A good bronze bore brush will aid in scrubbing the crud from your barrel. I can't count how many rifles I returned the accuracy to that their owners thought were "shot out" with this stuff. BTW, to my knowledge, Sako never chambered for the 358 Norma in the L61R. If you want one, you'll have to rebarrel.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Dan Newberry from BangSteel.com says don't clean out the copper. Says it is not necessary to get it out, and it won't affect the accuracy of the rifle. Mr. Newberry teaches long range rifle shooting and knows what he's talking about.

Awesome! Thankyou so much for the info. That makes things easier than anticipated. Watch out Brown Bear! .338 Finnbear is coming for ya!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

That's a bummer about no chambering in .358 Norma. But I have seen a couple L61R .358's that were already sold at auctions. Are they custom barreled Finnbears maybe?

 

[Mick 75-i]

My 75 Varmint shoots noticeably better when I’ve not targeted the copper during the previous clean.
I give it a good clean with Boretech carbon cleaner which appears to leave next to no copper anyhow. And it gets a clean with Boretech eliminator when I want it spotless.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

My 75 Varmint shoots noticeably better when I’ve not targeted the copper during the previous clean.
I give it a good clean with Boretech carbon cleaner which appears to leave next to no copper anyhow. And it gets a clean with Boretech eliminator when I want it spotless.

Roger that, good to know...