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Sako Ammunition 7x33 brass at Midway?

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

icebear

Sako-addicted
Just got a new reloading catalog in the mail from Midway and they are listing 7x33 brass from Bertram. I don't know if they actually have any, but it's in the catalog and certainly worth a phone check if you need some. Bertram is an Australian maker of high-end, low-volume exotic brass. They have an excellent reputation for quality. It might also be worth checking with other Bertram dealers.
 
I've tried some Bertram 7x33 brass (not from this lot), but it chambers hard in the two rifles I've tried it in. Since I lack a FL 7x33 sizing die, that makes the Bertram brass a problem for me.
 
Here's a thought. I could be completely off base and if somebody has tried this and it didn't work, so be it. It seems to me that if the Bertram brass merely "chambers hard" (as opposed to "will not chamber"), you could roll it in case lube and use the tight chamber as a sizer die. The brass will spring back to some degree, but it should size down somewhat. It won't get down to an easy fit, but if you run it through the chamber a couple of times and then fire it with a mild load, the brass should fireform to the chamber and be usable with neck sizing after the first firing. Fireforming normally is an expansion process, but I think that it might also serve for the very slight compression needed to fit the case to the chamber. I've never had to try such a thing, but in the case of something as hard to find as 7x33 brass, it might be worth a shot.
 
Well, I don' think that simply forcing the brass into the chamber (whether lubed or not) will change its dimensions enough to make a difference. However, it is probably the case that if you can get a shell to chamber and then fire it, it will likely chamber more easily the second time.

But all that is pretty theoretical when projectiles suitable for the 7x33 are almost non-existent, making fire-forming impractical.

Related to that, has anyone got a good idea of how to trim the nose off of a Hornady 7mm 100 grain hollow point? That bullet, if shortened (and lightened a bit by losing its nose), might work okay in a 7x33. It is .002" smaller than the factory 7x33 bullets, but it will probably shoot with acceptable accuracy due to the natural "bump up" it gets upon firing. But I do have a bump up die to make a bullet a full .286 if needed.
 
stone. had the same problem with some early bertram 7x33 brass. had both redding & super simplex (aussie made) 7x33 dies. using an old rock chucker simply f/l sized using hornady case lube, 1 case till it was a nice feel fit in my rifle, the 60 or so that followed, still use them to this day.
solid head section of the cases where a touch on the big side. used the rock chucker to swage ? them to fit
if your rifle has the 222r length mag refer back the the guns & game magazine article on the 7x33 & the 7mm x 100gr projectiles.
super simplex dies are still made, odd dies like the 7x33 would be made to order.not as pretty as the redding,s but still doing the job. check their web site.
susanna
 
A box of 50 genuine Sako unfired 7x33 brass just sold on Gunbroker. It went for $185 plus $5 shipping. That may be a new record for brass, but it will probably last the owner a lifetime of 7x33 shooting.
 
I think I have 11 boxes of the Bertram brass from Midway about 10 years ago. I will be sure to try fit when my gun gets here. A part of me actually wants to reload the fired SAKO brass I have with Berdan primers as I have Berdan tools and primers from 1950's Finland. I guess they could be corrosive though, so I should be careful. Ideally I will just shoot the factory ammo I have in the 78 grain sp and reload those with the FMJ's I have for practice. Just saying Kokkovaippa is practice enough! I will need a die set though as I am sure the handset I have{Latausvalineet} I have will get old after the first 50 or so.
 
Well, I don' think that simply forcing the brass into the chamber (whether lubed or not) will change its dimensions enough to make a difference. However, it is probably the case that if you can get a shell to chamber and then fire it, it will likely chamber more easily the second time.

But all that is pretty theoretical when projectiles suitable for the 7x33 are almost non-existent, making fire-forming impractical.

Related to that, has anyone got a good idea of how to trim the nose off of a Hornady 7mm 100 grain hollow point? That bullet, if shortened (and lightened a bit by losing its nose), might work okay in a 7x33. It is .002" smaller than the factory 7x33 bullets, but it will probably shoot with acceptable accuracy due to the natural "bump up" it gets upon firing. But I do have a bump up die to make a bullet a full .286 if needed.

I thing the camming action of the bolt moving into battery should move the shoulder sufficiently. It's like the M1 Garand making it's own headspace in battery; that's why it is bad practice to run ammo through the Garand rather than just ejecting the whole clip as once it has been in the chamber, the shoulder matches the headspace of that gun and should not be fired in another. Hatcher's Notebook is the best Christmas gift I ever got.........Until I got Michael Heidler's Die finnische Maschinenpistole SuomiM/31
 
Well, I don' think that simply forcing the brass into the chamber (whether lubed or not) will change its dimensions enough to make a difference. However, it is probably the case that if you can get a shell to chamber and then fire it, it will likely chamber more easily the second time.

But all that is pretty theoretical when projectiles suitable for the 7x33 are almost non-existent, making fire-forming impractical.

Related to that, has anyone got a good idea of how to trim the nose off of a Hornady 7mm 100 grain hollow point? That bullet, if shortened (and lightened a bit by losing its nose), might work okay in a 7x33. It is .002" smaller than the factory 7x33 bullets, but it will probably shoot with acceptable accuracy due to the natural "bump up" it gets upon firing. But I do have a bump up die to make a bullet a full .286 if needed.

One time I made ammo for a .22 JGR and I couldn't get a bullet to work in the mag, so I used .223 diameter , 35 grain Hornady bullets and found that I could pull-out the red plastic tips with needle-nose pliers. This got them short enough to feed and were devastating as evidenced by a naval orange I tried one on. I wonder if there is anything light enough in a ballistic tip we could pull the plastic out of?
 
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