• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

L579 .308 safety/trigger question

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Yes, it's an AII. I'll grab a picture next time I am in my safe :)

Sadly the wood on the other side and bottom isn't quite as nice. It isn't bad, but there are a couple of dents on the forend on the other side and the bottom has a couple smaller scuff, plus the pistol grip cap has two small chips knocked out of the wood. It is still in pretty good shape as it bumped around the woods for at least 20, 30 years before it ended up in a safe for a number of years before it made its way to me. The metal is in fantastic shape.

I mostly archery hunt deer where I live, but it was my first Rifle I used to harvest a deer when I started hunting a few years ago (this'll be season 8 for me). First, first deer was with a muzzleloader. It is a fair weather rife for me as I don't want to beat it up.
That’s really cool, to hear of your passion for hunting! I too am quite infatuated with Sako’s Afield.
I’m working on my 40th season…but only 20 or so have I been blessed to carry a Sako.
Don’t worry about fair weather hunting with your rifle, as it’s already been out there, carried and blemished by the years of use previous to your ownership.
The finish on the A series rifles is a bit more resistant to moisture than the early DeLux finish from the 60’s. With that being said, you have nothing to fear.
Take that rifle out as much as you desire! You won’t be sorry…enjoy!
 
Can those of you who are so against loctite but favor fingernail polish tell me the difference that makes one ok and the other so terrible?
 
The fingernail polish is meant to be applied to the EXTERNAL surfaces of a screw, to hold it's setting........yet can be easily be removed with a dental pick.

Loc-tite penetrates internal threads, and can be very difficult to remove when trying to readjust a given setting.........to the point of screw/part damage, when dealing with such small parts.

Keep in mind.......that many of Sako's old parts are no longer available.

Hope this helps.
 
Can those of you who are so against loctite but favor fingernail polish tell me the difference that makes one ok and the other so terrible?
The simplest explanation is Locktite 243 and 263 are used as thread sealers/lockers in the industrial and automotive world. Typically higher temperatures are needed to soften the material once it’s cured. This temperature on small parts like gun screws is a recipe for disaster. Nail polish is typically acrylic and will crack/shatter with moderate force. Most often a tiny amount is all that is needed to keep small screws set.. Hope this helps.
 
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Let's add some clarification here. There are three different grades of Loctite (and similar products offered by other manufacturers).

RED is intended to be permanent. It should never be used anywhere that you wouldn't weld the parts together. It's used for installing things like cylinder head studs that you really, really, really don't ever want to come loose.

BLUE is formulated to hold solidly, but to yield to a firm application of force from a screwdriver or wrench. It is the correct grade for most home and hobby applications. Age, storage conditions, and corrosion can cause it to hold tighter than intended, especially if leverage is reduced by a buggered screw head.

PURPLE Loctite is intended to add friction to adjustment screws that won't hold properly. I've never seen or heard of purple loctite freezing in place and preventing the screw from moving.

I don't generally use Loctite on guns, but I wonder how many cases of "Loctite lock-up" are caused by Bubbas who used red when they should have used blue. There's really no way of knowing.
 
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