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Sako A III 270 winchester
- Thread starter sempreelk
- Start date
Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum
kevinlg
Sako-addicted
The A series firing pins are not normally serviceable, due to the bolt shroud design.
So....no....the L series pin will not fit.
Besides.....I don't think you'll need a backup part.
I've never seen a broken one........but then I haven't seen everything.
Hope this helps.
I took it apart and found that the previous owner(s) had glass bedded the action about 3 inches in front of the lug, free floating the rest of the barrel. I don't know how he/she was able to screw in the front action screw it was that tight.
Interestingly the trigger was set at a tad over 6 Lbs. I adjusted that and the overtravel and it works fine. I am going to put a scope on it and have a go at it next weekend.
Interestingly the trigger was set at a tad over 6 Lbs. I adjusted that and the overtravel and it works fine. I am going to put a scope on it and have a go at it next weekend.
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Congratulations on owning your A-III. You can probably fix whatever "improvements" someone has made to it.
Some owners (or shade tree "gunsmiths" they take their guns to) do some stupid things. You've already corrected the unacceptable trigger pull; just hope that the bedding job doesn't have to be routed out and redone. You were lucky to be able to remove the action screws which someone probably treated with thread locking compound. Let's hope that Satan has a special place in hell for idiots who put thread locking compound on action screws and scope mounts.
Thank you.
Well what he/she did was let the bedding compound get into the front action screw hole and there was zero fit . I would have adjusted the trigger pull first and shot it before I thought about bedding the front lug
Like I said I will shoot it first and if it does well, I will completely rout out all the compound and redo it right, that includes the barrel channel which they apparently forgot to seal .
I actually drilled out the front screw a bit, it was much much tighter then that. I don't think there is room for a pillar on the front screw hole, the rear screw hole should have a pillar .There is a little aluminum sleeve in there that is not attached. I don't think the factory put that there.
Probably why the steel tubing is in place. The screws were on gorilla tight as well. I have not checked to see if the barreled action moves when torquing scews . I am going to shoot it and then I will start getting busy rebedding the thing.
The tube-style spacer for the rear screw is standard with factory L-series Sakos, and is usually of such length that it bears the weight of the rear tang with the tang only slightly snug against the wood. It is possible that the Einstein who did the stock work shortened this spacer so that the wood bears the pressure of the receiver when the rear screw is tightened -- but that is impossible to say from the photos alone.
The forward bedding is simply superfluous and adds nothing, but likely doesn't bother anything, either, so long as it is just filler and not a bearing surface. If it is a bearing surface it may have the effect of lifting the mid portion of the barrel off of its pressure point in the fore end, which will effectively float a barrel that was not intended to be floated.
The forward bedding is simply superfluous and adds nothing, but likely doesn't bother anything, either, so long as it is just filler and not a bearing surface. If it is a bearing surface it may have the effect of lifting the mid portion of the barrel off of its pressure point in the fore end, which will effectively float a barrel that was not intended to be floated.
Is there a certain amount of fitting required with a new firing pin assembly? I ordered part number S5940160 from Midwest Gun works. It is a very tight fit to get the new assembly into the bolt body. The only differences I see are the firing pin spring is shorter then my current firing pin spring. There are very Minor differences in the bolt shroud., I am deciding on whether I need to send this one back.
I have seen this problem before with the new firing pins. The rounded cuts on each side of the bayonet lug aren't deep enough or the radius is too large. Very slight touch with a dremel or a round needle file will make it better. Use masking tape to keep all the grinding dust off the moving parts. You definitely don't want any grit between the firing pin and the sleeve it slides in, since it's impossible to disassemble.
Or you could just return it.
Or you could just return it.
I am going to look at it further with some calipers. This was the only one I found online with the exception of another used one that was grossly overpriced.
Thank You
