I posted earlier about the trigger on my L579. The suggestion is to take it to a gunsmith which I am going to do. After making several inquiries I located one in Michigan that comes highly recommended and spoke with him today. He is confident that they can make the adjustments but suggested that I take the time to find a replacement screw and locking nut rather than pay his people $40.00 per hour to search. Can someone here point me in a viable direction. The prior thread with pics is below. Thanks.
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Trigger over travel screw
- Thread starter Mike VB
- Start date
Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum
marlin92
Well-Known Member
Complete trigger on EBAY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sako-L579-...575363?hash=item28444ccb83:g:2DEAAOSwjHdZYlin
Not sure where to get a screw right away unless someone here has one they would sell Good Luck
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sako-L579-...575363?hash=item28444ccb83:g:2DEAAOSwjHdZYlin
Not sure where to get a screw right away unless someone here has one they would sell Good Luck
Mike: The thread of the Sako trigger over-travel screw is standard M4 X 0.7. (4mm diameter, 0.7mm pitch)
The only one I have available to measure is of a total length of 9mm. There is a reduced diameter tip on it measuring 1.5mm in diameter, 2mm long. Take a look at the trigger diagram in the following document and you can see what I mean.
http://www.sako.fi/sites/default/files/Forester.pdf
I have seen several of these triggers over the years, but I have never seen one with a lock nut on the over-travel screw. When the screw is set for close to minimum over-travel there is so little of the shank protruding that there wouldn’t be much to get a lock nut on to anyway.
If you cannot get hold of a replacement factory over-travel screw, you could probably improvise without much difficulty. Get a 4mm grub screw 10mm long (shouldn’t be too hard to find, even in USA) and re-form the tip on it. If you don’t have access to a lathe, you can do this by putting lock nuts on the screw (or a dome nut) hold the upper-most nut in the chuck of a drill press, and shape the tip with a file. (I know this works, because I have done it myself, for a different device) Sounds crude, and the concentricity is probably less than perfect, but it is only a stop screw you need, not a highly critical, release component of the trigger.
You might even be able to get away with just making the tip of the screw a dome shape. It’s so long since I had one of these triggers apart that I can’t remember if there is a hole or recess of some sort in the trigger piece that the tip of the over-travel screw must fit into. You might be able to put a lock nut on the replacement screw, if it doesn’t foul up on the trigger guard/ floor plate assembly.
The only one I have available to measure is of a total length of 9mm. There is a reduced diameter tip on it measuring 1.5mm in diameter, 2mm long. Take a look at the trigger diagram in the following document and you can see what I mean.
http://www.sako.fi/sites/default/files/Forester.pdf
I have seen several of these triggers over the years, but I have never seen one with a lock nut on the over-travel screw. When the screw is set for close to minimum over-travel there is so little of the shank protruding that there wouldn’t be much to get a lock nut on to anyway.
If you cannot get hold of a replacement factory over-travel screw, you could probably improvise without much difficulty. Get a 4mm grub screw 10mm long (shouldn’t be too hard to find, even in USA) and re-form the tip on it. If you don’t have access to a lathe, you can do this by putting lock nuts on the screw (or a dome nut) hold the upper-most nut in the chuck of a drill press, and shape the tip with a file. (I know this works, because I have done it myself, for a different device) Sounds crude, and the concentricity is probably less than perfect, but it is only a stop screw you need, not a highly critical, release component of the trigger.
You might even be able to get away with just making the tip of the screw a dome shape. It’s so long since I had one of these triggers apart that I can’t remember if there is a hole or recess of some sort in the trigger piece that the tip of the over-travel screw must fit into. You might be able to put a lock nut on the replacement screw, if it doesn’t foul up on the trigger guard/ floor plate assembly.
Thanks for your helpful response red rover. I actually have an identical gun that is from the late 60s. I will just buy a screw as you suggested and bring both guns to the gunsmith. They may have such a screw on hand as it is but I could not tell them the size. So, I will bring screw and both guns to the smith and have them move the factory original to the older gun and add the new screw to the newer gun. If they are as good as their reputation they should be able to modify a screw. Thanks again.
I've been using the clear fingernail polish trick for years. Forty years ago they used to look funny at me when I went into Walgreen's to buy some. Nowadays no one bats an eye. (Well, except a few months ago one young clerk did bat his eyes in an inviting manner. I guess this old fart still appeals to someone.)
Times have changed, which I guess is part of why we love our older Sakos so much.
