• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

Removing a G&H Scope Mount from a Sako L461 Action

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

Rick,

After tiging heat the holes area to bright blue. The oven was only an option if the barrel was un-screwed. Good luck with the tig welding, and make sure that the outside & inside of the holes are polished bright, you don't want to let the tig come in contact with any blacking of the receiver! You have done the right thing in machining out the threads.

Blackjack
 
Hi Jack,

OK the dang SC Burrs finally got here and they cut through the first Tig attempt like butter. Here is a pic of the receiver after I did some serious material removal and sanding to remove the Blackening. Hopefully, I think I got all of what was left of the screws out of there. Kindly let me know your thoughts. One thing, I can't really see any goop around the pins. I didn't want to go too deep because the darn things go all the way through the receiver.

Rick

P8140178.JPG
 
Hello Rick,

Looking good my friend. The first hole, the one on the left has some blacking at 6.0 clock. Polish off using 400 grit. Now you have a nice clean surface for the tig! Remember heat the area around the holes to bright blue after tiging, and leave to cool in a warm room. Make off and finish with 600 grit, then polish the entire receiver with 800 to 1000 grit. now ready for re-blacking.

Blackjack
 
Hi Jack

Yep I saw it and there is some swarf in several of the holes that has to be blown out. As for reheating the receiver, I'm planning on using Oxy/Propane as opposed to Oxy/Acetylene. I'm afraid that the latter might just be too much heat and I don't want to over heat the receiver. I suppose I could use straight Propane and that just might be better because there really would be less of a chance for and overheat to occur.

Your thoughts very much appreciated.

rick
 
What a job! Admire your patience and determination Rick. I think I would have left it as is or moved it on. It was probably the bees knees scope mount in its day!

Anyway now looking forward to the finished product/restoration photos.

Cheers John
 
Hi John, Many thanks for the kind words. If you have been following my post on this project you know that I was determined to get rid of that darn mount. It really bothered me so I had to have a go at ripping it off and repairing the damage done to the receiver. I certainly didn't expect to run into the mount from hell but once I got into this business there simply was no turning back.

rick
 
Hello Rick,

Yes Oxy - Propane is your best heating option. Go careful not to go to cherry red. Only bright blue! Good luck!

Blackjack
 
It took a while but I got the welded receiver assembly back from Bill the welder last Monday. Sorry it took a week to post pics of the work but I have been busy here at the house. Being almost 70 it takes me longer to do stuff. The mind is willing but the body is weak. Take a look at the pics and kindly share your thoughts as usual.

P9120182.JPG
P9120183.JPG

The SC burr tool bit is still chucked in the mill so I'm going to use it to remove a lot of the over welding material. By shaving the over weld down it will reduce the amount to time I'll need to spend filing and sanding. After milling I plan on using the dremel tool with some find sanding disks to do some additional material reduction. Once that is done, I'll start filing and then do a final sanding to smooth the surface and get it ready for bluing.

Any more tips will be appreciated. Also, at this point I don't think I'm going to need to heat up the receiver before proceeding. I spoke to my welder about this and he told me that the filler material he used is mild steel so it should machine, file and sand ok.

rick
 
I used the S burr on the mill to tart o remove some the excess weld material. Didn't do all of the filled areas. Though I would see if the stuff would file off without too much complaining. Welder Bill was correct, it files off with a good sharp file without much resistance. I'm braking out the dremel with some small sanding disks and pads and needle files today to see how far I can get with a little effort. Pics coming shortly. This process seems to be going well so far.
 
I've been meaning to post the pics of the filing project got a bit sidetracked by the hurricane prep work that had to be done. I have completed the filing and grinding art of the project. Next comes sanding with progressively finer grits of paper until the contour is correct and the receiver is smooth and ready for bluing.

PA140001.JPG PA140001.JPG

Once I get a chance to complete the sanding part I'll post pics of the progress just prior to blackening the receiver. BTW, Bill did a great job of filling in the holes without overheating the receiver. Filing went very smoothly and I used my variable speed dremel too to go over the area to smooth it down and prepare for sanding. Gotta be very careful doing that so you don't get carried away. I used a fine little grinding stone and moved the tool back a forth over the area rapidly so I wouldn't leave ripples in the steel. That worked pretty well so I expect the sanding job to go smoothly as well.

rick
 

Attachments

  • PA140002.JPG
    PA140002.JPG
    40.1 KB · Views: 7
I wanted to circle back to my thread and close this project out. I didn't want to have the barrel removed and send the actin off to be professionally blacked so I thought I would give the commercial black product a try. That was a waste of time and money so I opted to get a couple of bottles of Brownell's old standby cold blue. The results were pretty good given that all I wan tis a no rust finish so I can shoot this little guy. Keep in mind that all I wanted to make it into was a shooter anyway. Here are some pics of the final product.

P1100066.JPG P1100064.JPG

The blue job isn't too awful bad but at least it is done for good and all. Looks ok when oiled and that gwadoffell G&H mount is a gonner for sure.

rick
 
Thanks Marcus. I appreciate your pat on the back. I wish I could post some pics of my latest project. It is a Winchester 1884 falling block in 219 Donaldson but it isn't a Sako and I don't want to ruffle feathers. If you are interested in seeing it, start a conversation and I'll send you my email. Once we are communicating I'll attach some pics of it.

rick
 

Latest posts

Back
Top