• Hey All! Lately there has been more and more scammers on the forum board. They register and replies to members requests for guns and/or parts or other things. The reply contains a gmail or hotmail address or similar ”anonymous” email addresses which they want you to reply to. DO NOT ANSWER ANY STRANGE MESSAGES! They often state something like this: ”Hello! Saw your post about purchasing a stock for a Safari. KnuckleheadBob has one. Email him at: [email protected]” If you receive any strange messages: Check the status of whoever message you. If they have no posts and signed up the same day or very recently, stay away. Same goes for other members they might refer to. Check them too and if they are long standing members, PM them and ask if the message is legit. Most likely it’s not. Then use the report function in each message or post so I can kick them out! Beware of anything that might seem fishy! And again, for all of you who registered your personal name as username, please contact me so I can change it to a more anonymous username. You’d be surprised of how much one can find out about a person from just a username on a forum such ad our! All the best! And be safe! Jim

New Member and New Sako Mannlicher owner

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

MarkJnK

Member
Hello from Canada. What a fantastic forum and knowledgeable group you all are! I recently took the plunge into Sako ownership with this 580xxx serial .270. I've always wanted a Sako, I've always wanted to add a Mannlicher to the collection, and I like the .270 cartridge for somewhat economical and easy to find factory loads. Plus this rifle just spoke to me so I bought it. From my research, it looks to be all original and without any rare or interesting features that would make it collectible. Am I correct in that assessment? The bluing is pristine, at least 98%, while the wood has some very small love taps here and there. Peep sight and sight hood look correct, and the butt pad still has some spring in it. For a 35 year old rifle I think it look remarkably well kept.

The finish on the stock is a satin oil finish, and doesn't seem very hard. If I tap it with my fingernail, I can dent it quite easily. I am quite a good wood refinisher and have done many gun stocks. I would strip this one down to bare wood, apply a stain to get a deeper finish, and top it off with a dozen or more applications or Tru-oil, with light rub down between coats with #0000 steel wool.

I know I could improve the look and feel of the stock, but would this be a foolish thing to do to an already fine rifle? My intention is to hunt with it, as I do all my rifles. None are safe queens, but most could pass as new after a season or two of careful use. FWIW I paid the equivalent of $1100usd for it ($1400cad) Thanks in advance for any comments or advice.
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Beautiful rifle that's Immaculate! I wouldn't touch the finish until it needed it...which would be 20-30 years from now. No matter your skill-set you will diminish the value if you redo that stock.
 
For a little better weather protection when hunting I would just rub in some Tru-oil, Arrow oil, Danish oil, Tung oil, or something similar. No need to strip the original finish. I wouldn't try to get a gloss finish or build a finish up. Just seal the wood & go hunt. Your rifle is from the late 80's, as that is the unique checkering pattern of that era. You will not diminish it's "value", as these rifles have little "collector" appeal as they are neither rare nor highly sought after. It's your rifle, so do what you want with it & enjoy. Don't listen to all the nay sayers that think "every" Sako is a shrine to be worshipped & not tampered with.
 
Thanks guys, for your contrasting opinions. I suppose I lean a bit more towards paulsoncontructions viewpoint, in that its not a collectible gun, yet is a high quality finely crafted shooting tool (with a hugely loyal fan club). So anything done to it, assuming it follows the same high quality and finely crafted guidelines will stay true to the nature of it. Im not sure if I will refinish it, or just top dress the finish as suggested, or leave it alone and add a few beauty marks of my own. I do know it will be across my lap as I sit patiently waiting for my buck this fall.
 
I guess everyone should have a beater, but my gun cabinet doesnt have any plastic in it. Plenty of walnut. I have trouble grabbing a plastic stocked gun for a day of hunting where I'll have 5-8 hours to sit and admire it. Having said that, my recent fascination with Sakos has me eying a couple plastic/stainless Sakos. So that might change yet.
 
Sure is a beauty and from my perspective worth every penny given the condition. Welcome to the forum and many thanks for including the wonderful pictures of your Sako. It might not be a shrine but many of us do enjoy seeing furniture like yours. I agree about putting some oil on the stock to help with the waterproofing. I often wondered if car wax would work as well.

rick
 
Mark
There are as many opinions on price and worth in the club as there are members here.
In my opinion you hit it just right. I have recently seen the same or similar
go for right around $1000 U.S. and figure about $100 for the peep.
Being a .270 win. you can't go wrong for deer and bear IMO.
You done good.
Aim, squeeze, and enjoy.
Welcome to the club.
Kax
 
I think you got a bargain. Mannlicher Sakos have been climbing in price and nice ones go for at least $1,000. An early one from the L-series with gloss finish will bring even more. Even those that show some field use are bringing a premium over sporters. And the peep is a $100 item, so you essentially got it for nothing.

There is no question that refinishing the stock will hurt its future market value since most buyers want everything "original" (but it will be at least a half-century before it might possibly have some collector value). However, the stock shows some nice grain and you can certainly improve on the rather pedestrian matte lacquer finish that Sako used during this era. Since it is your gun and you didn't buy it to resell, you should do whatever pleases you regarding the stock. If it will provide more satisfaction to admire your own stock finish while sitting holding the rifle for hours at a time awaiting the right set of antlers to appear, the by all means do so.
 
in that its not a collectible gun, yet is a high quality finely crafted shooting tool (with a hugely loyal fan club). So anything done to it, assuming it follows the same high quality and finely crafted guidelines will stay true to the nature of it.
Very well stated!!! I think that covers about 90%+ of all the Sakos out there. To treat $1000 rifles whose long term value won't even keep up with inflation as collectible investments is foolhardy. I'd rather use (even in the rain!!), enjoy, & tinker with them while I'm still breathing than park them in a safe & worry about what they might be worth after I'm long gone.
 
Although Sakos are a higher quality rifle than most, they were made for the purpose of hunting and not collecting. Collecting is something that happens with little to no concern to the purpose.

Yours is what you got it for, a high quality hunting rifle. I believe most manufacturers today are building hunting "tools" with little regard to traditional gun building and appearance. Sadly that is what the market is dictating these days.

I have a few older guns that would be a crime to mess with the finish, and I still shoot them. I also have a 75 Deluxe in 300 Weatherby that I had a brake put on, bedded and a Decelerator pad put on it so I could hunt elk. It will never be a collectors item, but it has killed a bunch of elk.

The more collectible guns still get out and shoot varmints and game, I just exercise more care when I use them.
 
Well, first off, the site owners better change the name. Secondly, the buyer himself (And most here) comment on what good condition this or any gun is. Original finish, original pad, original bluing, etc. Why is this important?Unmolested is used frequently. Why is that?

Personally, I like quality OEM guns, or I'd build one up from parts. I use them and take care of them. I rarely sell guns, unless its a dog. I learned that years ago. I get to play with my investments, thus getting sustainable entertainment value, as well.
 
We better change the name of the site!

Why do most of us seek out the unmolested, all original, best condition guns? Why do we appreciate them so? Why buy Sako? Then why, after surviving 30-40 years in this condition would you rush to alter it is my point. Use it, care for it. Oh, you might want to electro-pencil your name and address on it. Just in case.
 
There are many degrees of "collecting", what constitutes a "collection", & how one perceives himself as a "collector". We also must separate "collecting" from "hoarding", which IMHO is a mental disease. I don't think there is anyone that doesn't appreciate a nice older Sako that is all original & in fine condition. Usually, originality & condition determine it's market value, which is only logical, especially to those looking for OEM rifles. I have factory original Sakos, modified Sakos, refinished Sakos, & custom rifles built on Sako actions in what I call "my tiny collection". Others may only consider OEM Sakos as worthy of collecting or having any worth. Both approaches are valid & one should not think that only their way is the "right" way & that only their definition of "collecting" is correct. Let's face it, compared to some of the real "collectible" firearms out there like the old Colts, Winchesters, & others that command 6 figures at auction, our little Sakos aren't even on the radar as having investment type collectibility. To think they do is fantasy. Like I said, they will barely keep up with inflation. Each member here should be able to do what he feels like doing with his "collection" without criticism or scorn. I enjoy all my Sakos whether someone else thinks they are "collectible" or not. I hope the club does not change it's name nor narrow it's definition of what a "collection" is, but rather stays open & inclusive to all it's forms. Just my two cents!
 
Some very passionate and insightful replies, which help me understand the climate here pretty quickly (in a good way). I flip flop on the idea or refinishing it, and probably overthinking it as im laid up with severe pneumonia. Either way, tbis rifle will please me, assuming it shoots as i expect. That will be vetted as soon as my pounding headache subsides. I also flip flopped on scope vs peep. Currently it wears a Leupold 3-9x40 on med Leupold rings. Eye height is fantastic with a solid cheek weld. Bore sighted and ready for the range. My only gripe is the weight being a hair over 9# with optics. Half pound or full pound less would have been ideal. My understanding (correct me if im wrong) was Sako beefed up the barrel profile to combat vertical stringing. Makes sense, we'll see it it holds true.

I see no import markings, which i understand are below the barrel under the forend. Could this also be a Euro model without stamps? Or most definitely a Stoeger import?

Thanks for the wealth of info gentlemen.
 
Mark, that's a beautiful rifle and, given its portability, should be just excellent in close-range hunting in particular. Just one point to make: I don't think the finish on the stock is any kind of oil finish. Instead, it is, I believe, a lacquer finish muted to look like oil. Therefore, I can't see any point in applying oil to it, as the oil will have nowhere to go and will just lie on top of the lacquer. Instead, I'd get some Renaissance Wax and rub some of this on it to provide further protection (and apply the Ren Wax to the metal parts too).

In my experience, Renaissance Wax is by far the most-recommended wax for gunstock application. If you are anywhere near Ingersoll, Ontario, you could pick some up in person--otherwise order it online from On the Edge:

http://www.on-the-edge.ca/renwax.htm
 
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I did notice someone else mention laquer which piqued my interest a bit, thinking i need to research a bit more before doing anything. Thanks for the info! Is that your store? My brother has been there and told me about it, and its been in my list of places to get to this summer. I do love my knives too. The idea of going all the way to stripping it is attractive because a) i can steam out some small dings and dents b) i get the depth and colour i want with a trusted finish (tru-oil). When i finish a stock, few can tell it isnt factory. I even strip off that thick plastic finish that Browning does and replace with a hand rubbed oil finish. The difference is amazing. Appreciate the tip on the wax. Ill look into it.
 
I did notice someone else mention laquer which piqued my interest a bit, thinking i need to research a bit more before doing anything. Thanks for the info! Is that your store? My brother has been there and told me about it, and its been in my list of places to get to this summer. I do love my knives too. The idea of going all the way to stripping it is attractive because a) i can steam out some small dings and dents b) i get the depth and colour i want with a trusted finish (tru-oil). When i finish a stock, few can tell it isnt factory. I even strip off that thick plastic finish that Browning does and replace with a hand rubbed oil finish. The difference is amazing. Appreciate the tip on the wax. Ill look into it.
Definitely not my store!:) I'm in Vancouver. Completely stripping the lacquer finish and refinishing with something like Tru-Oil might provide a slightly-better appearance to the stock, but won't provide as good protection as you have with the present lacquer finish overlaid with a good wax like Ren Wax. If the rifle will be subjected to harsh conditions--as is often the case with hunting--I think I'd leave well-enough alone with this particular rifle.

It's not that I don't appreciate a beautiful oil finish. I do, and have a number of custom rifles with stocks finished this way. For target use or light hunting, like varminting, I'd consider a true in-the-wood finish--particularly if the wood had exceptional figure and contrast--but for hard hunting in possibly bad conditions, I'd prefer a harder finish. Just my opinion; others may disagree.
 
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