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L46 forearm swivel milled cutout

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

cwmech

Active Member
DSC00197.JPE DSC00198.JPE DSC00197.JPE DSC00198.JPE
Admins, sorry for my computer ineptitude on pics.
anyone have any suggestions on a good fix for this L46 forearm? Bubba must have wanted an ebony tip and whiteline, but the spacer seems melted and the tip is not on the same plane as the rest of the stock, and there's not any sign of a pressure point for the barrel.
I would try to pin and reglue, but I think it'd have to be set up on a machine bed to get sawcut and pins true for placement and bonding, and it looks tacky on this hunter stock.
Thanks, cwmech
 
I would saw off what you have & fit a new rosewood (or other wood of your choice) tip without a whiteline spacer. It will require precision tooling to cut the mating surfaces & the tip will have to be shaped to match. The barrel channel can be cut to provide a pressure point if you desire. The front swivel should be back from the tip in the original stock wood. The entire stock should then be refinished. This is not a job for the amateur, as you can see from the previous owners attempt. IMHO, this is a job for a professional with the proper tooling & expertise if you want it to look right.
 
I just love do-it-yourselfers don't you? To do this properly sawing and trying to do a refit is a waste of time. Paul is right, replace with rosewood and if you want a spacer you can put one in as well. To do this right and make the thing fit properly you are going to need to get access to a milling machine with a tilt head. The machinist isn't going to appreciate that he is going to have to take the mill out of tram to cut the two pieces but when done they will fit like a glove. Just so happens that one of my vertical mills is out of tram from a job that I did a while back but I'm not doing gunsmithing any more. Try giving Jerry over at Full Metal Gunsmith a call 321-507-7113. He is a woodworking wonder and if you can get him to fit this into his schedule he will to the work right the first time and for a reasonable price. My advice not to wait on this if you are going to call him. He is getting really full up with work and the sooner you give him a call the better. Mondays and Tuesdays are best. The rest of the week he is buried in work and does not like to breakoff to take a phone call.

rick
 
Save yourself some money & just get a clean 90 degree saw cut & drop the whiteline spacer. The end result will be a look more compatible with a standard sporter. The angle cut & whiteline spacer will add considerably to the costs.
 
Hi Paul, I have to disagree with your approach. The way I see it, it is difficult to cut the 90 with a miter saw and come out clean with both parts that will match seamlessly. To do that you would need to get your hands on a razor saw that is about 3" wide and a miter box that matches the saw. That said there is always a bit of a taper on most stocks and that taper will throw the joint off. Milling is the only way that you can get a true seamless match. Not much material needs to be removed from the boogerred end of the stock so a mill will allow the removal of just enough material to make the stock side respectable. The Rosewood tip can be milled with a matching taper without screwing with the setup of the mill head. You can invert it and machine the thing without changing any of the settings.

But who am I to make recommendations for this operation. So you can try the elcheapo way and if that works great! If not and you screw it up then you pay the piper. I for one am a proponent of doing it right the first time and most hammer and screw driver folks think they have the skills but in the end they come up short.

rick
 
Rick, the end cut doesn't need to be a "perfect" 90 degrees. As long as it is flat, a flat cut end piece can be attached with a flush fit fairly easily. The "tip"(which is a rectangular block of wood) can then be formed to match the fore end contour & the barrel channel cut to suit. You are making this much to complicated & expensive. I've done dozens of them this way & with the right tools (a quality saw that cuts flat & true, a belt sander & some routing tools for the channel) & care they look very nice. No milling of either the stock or the tip piece is required at all. I can have the tip attached in the time it takes you to set up the mill just to cut the stock end. Just speaking from my past experiences.
 
I understand what you are saying Paul but most people do not have the skills to shape the tip. Much less spend the time needed to completely refinish the stock. I would get one that has already been roughed out. Do what I said to cut the 90 on both the stock and the tip. My method assures that there is no jagged edge on either piece. Then I would glue the spacer and tip onto the stock and finish the thing. Jerry does this stuff all the time without the need to refinish the stock.
 
Update
Thanks Paulson and Rick
I opted for the simple, although about 2" shorter, I cut and sanded the end to a visual approximation of an original late model sporter stock, and installed a new detachable stud.
After further cleaning and examination as to why it wouldn't do better than 1 1/2" groups, a borescope revealed it's issue, and is currently @ PacNor for a new tube, standard 222, in a 12 twist, copy factory contour in SS and cerakote the bbl.
cw
 
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