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Bullet Seating Depth

Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum

After reading a few posts on different sites and putting 2 & 2 together, I came up with this idea and wanted to share. It's copied and pasted from the forum I typed it in.

I'll word this the way I did it and you guys can adlib from there. Or PM me and I'll give ya my phone number.
To establish C.A.O.L.(case over all length) and/or seating depth with each bullet I'll ever use, here's what I did.
1) Put my gun in my cleaning rest on my reloading bench. Bolt cocked(gun empty of course)and closed. No protruding firing pin if it's cocked.
2) Using a wood dowel(long), small enough to fit down the barrel, insert it untill it touches the bolt face. Using a razor blade, make a slight cut/mark on the dowel exactly flush with the end of the muzzle.
3) Remove the bolt.
Both dowels could be the same diameter. Match the caliber.
4) Insert another dowel(short) (just small enough to fit into the bullet recess area of the chamber) into the chamber from the breech end with each bullet you're going to use. One at a time of course. It takes a little finageling sometimes as some bullets want to slip into a bolt lug recess. Using the dowel from the muzzle end at the same time helps align the bullet so it enters the chamber correctly.
Anyhow, slowly slide the bullet into the chamber using the short dowel with your left hand while sliding the other dowel down the barrel from the muzzle end with your right hand untill the long dowel contacts the tip of the bullet.
Note: It's easy to push the bullet into the lands so be very gentle and use the same force on each bullet for a consistent measurement.
Remember that your bolt face measurement is already established and will be the same for all measurements with that particular gun.
I pushed the bullet off the lands a few times with my right hand dowel while pushing it back against the lands with my left hand dowel at the same time untill I was satisfied with it just barely making contact.
5) Now, slightly lift up on the long dowel to put pressure against the muzzle so the dowel won't move while you're reaching for the razor blade you forgot to set close enough to reach, LOL.
Providing that the dowel is still exactly in place against the bullet tip and the bullet is barely touching the lands, make another cut or mark with the razor blade flush with the muzzle.
6) Remove the long dowel and using a reloading micrometer(knife edge), measure the distance between the two cuts. I used a fine point pen to make the cuts easier to see.
The resulting measurement(write it down)is the C.O.A.L. for THAT bullet TOUCHING the lands. Rember that this measurement is Touching The Lands. This might not be a safe seating depth for some established loads as greater chamber pressure will result with a bullet seated against the lands. Most of you already knew that but thought I'd better say it.
Based on a posting from Sinclair International stating that they'd found the 'sweet spot' to be between .020 and .030 off the lands with most guns/bullets, I adjusted my seating depth to be .025 off the lands based on all the new measurements I just took. My rifle magazies will allow this. Yours might not. Check it out as your magazine might be the determining factor for COAL.
Each bullet will extend into the lands differently, so rotate the dowel and make a new mark for each bullet you have on your bench.
I did this and wrote down the COAL for each cal(3 rifles)and 13 bullets. I then subtracted .025 from each measurement and am going to use this as my new starting point for working up loads. I recorded all of it so I won't have to do it again unless I try a different bullet.
Over the years I've always used a felt tip marker to color a band around a seated bullet right at the ogive, chamber it, re-seat it again and again untill no marks appeared from touching the lands. I established 'dummy' rds for most bullets over the years but really never knew exactly how far off the lands I was with any given bullet untill now.
Upon checking out some of my dummy rds that I thought were barely off the lands, surprise!! They all varied considerably. I adjusted them yesterday with an enertia bullet puller and re-seated them to my new COAL based on my new findings.
It's actually really easy to do this and now I know exactly where each bullet is seated and can use a micrometer to double check each time.

Location: Puyallup
Posts: 644

avatar_4849.png


Re: Bullet Seating Depth
xAB Reply #23 on: Today at 06:25:30 PM xBB
Quote Modify Remove After reading that link Killbilly posted all the waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to the bottom I put a few ideas together that I'd read on it and came up with this:
I'll word this the way I did it and you guys can adlib from there. Or PM me and I'll give ya my phone number.
To establish C.A.O.L.(case over all length) and/or seating depth with each bullet I'll ever use, here's what I did.
1) Put my gun in my cleaning rest on my reloading bench. Bolt cocked(gun empty of course)and closed. No protruding firing pin if it's cocked.
2) Using a wood dowel(long), small enough to fit down the barrel, insert it untill it touches the bolt face. Using a razor blade, make a slight cut/mark on the dowel exactly flush with the end of the muzzle.
3) Remove the bolt.
Both dowels could be the same diameter. Match the caliber.
4) Insert another dowel(short) (just small enough to fit into the bullet recess area of the chamber) into the chamber from the breech end with each bullet you're going to use. One at a time of course. It takes a little finageling sometimes as some bullets want to slip into a bolt lug recess. Using the dowel from the muzzle end at the same time helps align the bullet so it enters the chamber correctly.
Anyhow, slowly slide the bullet into the chamber using the short dowel with your left hand while sliding the other dowel down the barrel from the muzzle end with your right hand untill the long dowel contacts the tip of the bullet.
Note: It's easy to push the bullet into the lands so be very gentle and use the same force on each bullet for a consistent measurement.
Remember that your bolt face measurement is already established and will be the same for all measurements with that particular gun.
I pushed the bullet off the lands a few times with my right hand dowel while pushing it back against the lands with my left hand dowel at the same time untill I was satisfied with it just barely making contact.
5) Now, slightly lift up on the long dowel to put pressure against the muzzle so the dowel won't move while you're reaching for the razor blade you forgot to set close enough to reach, LOL.
Providing that the dowel is still exactly in place against the bullet tip and the bullet is barely touching the lands, make another cut or mark with the razor blade flush with the muzzle.
6) Remove the long dowel and using a reloading micrometer(knife edge), measure the distance between the two cuts. I used a fine point pen to make the cuts easier to see.
The resulting measurement(write it down)is the C.O.A.L. for THAT bullet TOUCHING the lands. Rember that this measurement is Touching The Lands. This might not be a safe seating depth for some established loads as greater chamber pressure will result with a bullet seated against the lands. Most of you already knew that but thought I'd better say it.
Based on a posting from Sinclair International stating that they'd found the 'sweet spot' to be between .020 and .030 off the lands with most guns/bullets, I adjusted my seating depth to be .025 off the lands based on all the new measurements I just took. My rifle magazies will allow this. Yours might not. Check it out as your magazine might be the determining factor for COAL.
Each bullet will extend into the lands differently, so rotate the dowel and make a new mark for each bullet you have on your bench.
I did this and wrote down the COAL for each cal(3 rifles)and 13 bullets. I then subtracted .025 from each measurement and am going to use this as my new starting point for working up loads. I recorded all of it so I won't have to do it again unless I try a different bullet.

Over the years I've always used a felt tip marker to color a band around a seated bullet right at the ogive, chamber it, re-seat it again and again untill no marks appeared from touching the lands. I established 'dummy' rds for most bullets over the years but really never knew exactly how far off the lands I was with any given bullet untill now.
Upon checking out some of my dummy rds that I thought were barely off the lands, surprise!! They all varied considerably. I adjusted them yesterday with an enertia bullet puller and re-seated them to my new COAL based on my new findings.
It's actually really easy to do this and now I know exactly where each bullet is seated and can use a micrometer to double check each time.

Location: Puyallup
Posts: 644

avatar_4849.png


Re: Bullet Seating Depth
xAB Reply #23 on: Today at 06:25:30 PM xBB
Quote Modify Remove After reading that link Killbilly posted all the waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to the bottom I put a few ideas together that I'd read on it and came up with this:
I'll word this the way I did it and you guys can adlib from there. Or PM me and I'll give ya my phone number.
To establish C.A.O.L.(case over all length) and/or seating depth with each bullet I'll ever use, here's what I did.
1) Put my gun in my cleaning rest on my reloading bench. Bolt cocked(gun empty of course)and closed. No protruding firing pin if it's cocked.
2) Using a wood dowel(long), small enough to fit down the barrel, insert it untill it touches the bolt face. Using a razor blade, make a slight cut/mark on the dowel exactly flush with the end of the muzzle.
3) Remove the bolt.
Both dowels could be the same diameter. Match the caliber.
4) Insert another dowel(short) (just small enough to fit into the bullet recess area of the chamber) into the chamber from the breech end with each bullet you're going to use. One at a time of course. It takes a little finageling sometimes as some bullets want to slip into a bolt lug recess. Using the dowel from the muzzle end at the same time helps align the bullet so it enters the chamber correctly.
Anyhow, slowly slide the bullet into the chamber using the short dowel with your left hand while sliding the other dowel down the barrel from the muzzle end with your right hand untill the long dowel contacts the tip of the bullet.
Note: It's easy to push the bullet into the lands so be very gentle and use the same force on each bullet for a consistent measurement.
Remember that your bolt face measurement is already established and will be the same for all measurements with that particular gun.
I pushed the bullet off the lands a few times with my right hand dowel while pushing it back against the lands with my left hand dowel at the same time untill I was satisfied with it just barely making contact.
5) Now, slightly lift up on the long dowel to put pressure against the muzzle so the dowel won't move while you're reaching for the razor blade you forgot to set close enough to reach, LOL.
Providing that the dowel is still exactly in place against the bullet tip and the bullet is barely touching the lands, make another cut or mark with the razor blade flush with the muzzle.
6) Remove the long dowel and using a reloading micrometer(knife edge), measure the distance between the two cuts. I used a fine point pen to make the cuts easier to see.
The resulting measurement(write it down)is the C.O.A.L. for THAT bullet TOUCHING the lands. Rember that this measurement is Touching The Lands. This might not be a safe seating depth for some established loads as greater chamber pressure will result with a bullet seated against the lands. Most of you already knew that but thought I'd better say it.
Based on a posting from Sinclair International stating that they'd found the 'sweet spot' to be between .020 and .030 off the lands with most guns/bullets, I adjusted my seating depth to be .025 off the lands based on all the new measurements I just took. My rifle magazies will allow this. Yours might not. Check it out as your magazine might be the determining factor for COAL.
Each bullet will extend into the lands differently, so rotate the dowel and make a new mark for each bullet you have on your bench.
I did this and wrote down the COAL for each cal(3 rifles)and 13 bullets. I then subtracted .025 from each measurement and am going to use this as my new starting point for working up loads. I recorded all of it so I won't have to do it again unless I try a different bullet.

Over the years I've always used a felt tip marker to color a band around a seated bullet right at the ogive, chamber it, re-seat it again and again untill no marks appeared from touching the lands. I established 'dummy' rds for most bullets over the years but really never knew exactly how far off the lands I was with any given bullet untill now.
Upon checking out some of my dummy rds that I thought were barely off the lands, surprise!! They all varied considerably. I adjusted them yesterday with an enertia bullet puller and re-seated them to my new COAL based on my new findings.
It's actually really easy to do this and now I know exactly where each bullet is seated and can use a micrometer to double check each time.
 
Since bullet lengths can vary among those in a particular box of bullets, I measure the length of my "master round" (with the bullet seated where it is touching the lands) from the base to the ogive and then use that to set my seater die to zero. I use a micrometer type die with seating depth marked in .001" increments which makes it very easy to experiment with the seating depths until I find the sweet spot, which for me has been from touching the lands to .025" off the lands. I start by testing distances off the lands in .005" increments and then fine tune, only if necessary. When I find a combination that produces 1/2 MOA that's good enough for me. The Redding Instant Indicator also makes this process easy. I work up my first load with the bullet touching the lands, and then if I find the sweet spot to be off the lands, I can adjust the load if needed, but I generally don't find that to be necessary.
While I have used the recommended method for establishing my master round, I also have used the (simpler?) method of slowly and carefully closing the bolt on a dummy round which makes use of a sized case (no primer or powder) with a bullet just started into the case neck. When I try to extract the round slowly and carefully and find that it's stuck, I insert a dowel into the muzzle and carefully push lightly on the dowel while pulling the bolt. I then set my seater die to reduce seating depth by preparing another dummy round seated .005"-.010" longer and then paint the bullet with a sharpie. I then test the new dummy round by chambering it. If the bullet shows engraving on the ogive, I progressively seat the bullet deeper in .001" increments until there is no more engraving on the bullet. Then I reduce seating depth by .0005 and call that my zero seating depth.
 
Bill,
I also checked bullet seating this way for many years but using the dowel method gave me much more 'feel'.
I then checked some of my 'dummy' or 'master' rounds and found that by checking them with a felt tip marker and chambering them that I was off one way or the other much more than I'd thought.

I don't know why in the hell this posted 3 times. I must have done something wrong. Sorry guys.
 
I use the Hornady O.A.L. (over all length) Gauge. This works great and easy to use for getting the exact O.A.L. I keep the bullet off the lands about .020 as well, but in my Sako 75 270 WSM I have to keep them ALOT shorter to fit in the clip. In this case I make them as long as I can, so they fit and feed from the clip. Doesn't seem to matter though, she still puts them in the same hole.
 
Or you can buy a RCBS precision mic and check things. I use them on every caliber for which I reload. Nice tool. Also lets you check the chamber dimensions.
 
I made a kit for a few dollars worth of nylon spacers and thumb screws I use with cleaning rods to measure bullet jump to lands before Hornady offered their excellent gauge. I recorded maximum length allowed by the magazine and the maximum length to the lands for a given bullet in each rifle. I then developed the optimal load for each rifle with seating depth being the final step of fine tuning. Many of the bullets in many of the rifles were around .020" inch off lands, but some were much further out and some were all but touching.
 
Dang, I feel like Mr. Retro. I seat as long as I can to fit the mag. I also build a round to verify distance to the lands. Anything that fits my magazine never gets close to the lands on any of the rifles I've measured, I'm done. I don't revisit it unless accuracy is an issue. That's on hunting rifles, now on rifles I compete with...well that's a different story.
 
I've been reloading for more years than I like to remember. Before all of this newfangled micrometer dies et al. I still do it the old fashioned way and come away with superb reloads and accuracy. Here is how I do it. Now we are talking about bullet seating dies that that have the threaded seating rod in them with nothing more than a nut screwed down to the top of the die to secure the thing and maintain the seating depth.

You start by making a master case (no powder or primer please as this is a dummy round). Use a FL die and size the case. Get whatever bullet you are planning on using and with the seating die locked into the press start seating the bullet in the case. Make sure the seating rod is pretty far out with the nut just gently snugged up. A rule of thumb I use is the OAL of the case with the bullet seated in it for the first go is about 1/8" too long. Now stick the master case into the mag or chamber and gently try to close the bolt. Don't push hard cause it just ain't going to go. Remove the case from the rifle. Hold the nut on the seater die so it doesn't turn and using your screwdriver turn the seating rod into the die 1/2 turn. Run the case back into the seater die gently here because the bullet is only going to move a few thou into the case. Put the round back into the rifle (mag or chamber and gently try to close the bolt. After repeating this process the bolt will start to turn closed and eventually it will close (if you push too hard the bullet is going to get stuck in the lands so be gentle). At this point the bullet is contacting the lands. Gently open the bolt and remove the round. Repeat the process of holding the nut on the seater die and using your screwdriver turn the seating rod another 1/2 turn into the die. Run the master case into the die and then re-chamber the it. This time the bolt should close without any resistance and the bullet should be seated the perfect distance from the lands without contacting them. If it doesn't and you still feel resistance turn the seating rod into the die 1/4 turn this time and try chambering the round again. Once the bolt closes cleanly, stick your screwdriver into the slot on top of the seating rod and hold it steady. At this point you don't want the seating rod to turn any more. Gently finish snugging up the lock nut without turning the rod. Run the master round back into the seater die and re-chamber it. Nothing should have changed. Make a second dummy round. This time FL it and seat another bullet. Be sure to use the same bullet as was used in the first master round. Chamber the second dummy round. if you did everything correctly it should go into the chamber and the bolt should close like butter. Label the two dummy rounds. put one in the box with the dies and the second into a drawer somewhere else in the shop just in case you lose the first one. Be sure you put the bullet manufacturer, weight and caliber on the case. Use a marker or sticky label. Now whenever you want to load that bullet all you have to do is put the master round into the shell holder, make sure that the die is secure in the press and that the seating rod is screwed far up into the die that it isn't going to contact the bullet when the case is run up into the seating die. Run the master case into the die and with the lock nut slightly snug on the seating rod gently screw the rod into the die until it makes contact with the bullet in the master case. Lower the case from the die and tighten the lock nut as before. Now you can replicate the same cartridge configuration regardless of shell holder differences or die positioning.
 

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