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Locked bolt on L61R
- Thread starter Bbeck
- Start date
Sako Collectors Club Discussion Forum
paulsonconstruction
Sako-addicted
Your bolt guide retainer/spring has probably broken & allowed the guide to slide forward & catch on the forward receiver ring, not allowing the bolt to turn. You'll have to slide the guide rearward until it clears the receiver before the bolt will open. The safety won't engage because the rifle is not cocked.
Where do I find the guide and what does it look like? Sorry for my ignorance!
Where do I find the guide and what does it look like? Sorry for my ignorance!
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tripledeuce
Well-Known Member
The safety appears to be forward enough and bolt handle should lift. When the safety is slid rearward to safe, a tab on the safety slide enters a slot on the bolt handle ring keeping the bolt handle from lifting. Forward movement may be restricted, thus locking the bolt handle. Assuming the chamber is empty, the stock would have to be removed and trigger group inspected.
, the stock would have to be removed and trigger group inspected.
tripledeuce
Well-Known Member
The shroud at rear of bolt would indicate that the firing pin is at rest and not setting on trigger sear. If a HOT reload was fired, it could lock the bolt from lifting up to open action. Seek a gunsmith if this makes little or no sense.
The safety appears to be forward enough and bolt handle should lift. When the safety is slid rearward to safe, a tab on the safety slide enters a slot on the bolt handle ring keeping the bolt handle from lifting. Forward movement may be restricted, thus locking the bolt handle. Assuming the chamber is empty
What should I be looking for with the trigger group?
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Not sure it is an issue, but looking at the rear of your bolt assembly, seems the firing pin release or adjustment screw is in further than any I have seen before. I checked several 579 and 61Rs I have and they are all flush. I have not needed to remove this screw during disassembly for cleaning as I can clean without and leave the adjustment per factory settings. Never had to replaced a firing pin.
tripledeuce
Well-Known Member
I also noticed the firing pin screw. Adjusted correctly, there should be approx. .050 protrusion of the firing pin from the bolt face. The trigger assembly is attached by a pin and pivots. The trigger is adjusted by a stop screw on one side, and lock nutted screw on the forward side. If loose or mis-adjusted, could affect bolt or trigger operation. Try different ammo. A friend has a Rem. 7mm mag, and only likes Rem. brass. Anything else, the bolt locks up like yours did.
I suspect something may be desperately wrong with your rifle. I've never seen a firing pin adjustment so apparently far forward as yours, which would create a greatly excessive firing pin protrusion from the bolt face.
It is possible that whoever did the rechambering job made the chamber somewhat too deep and in order to get the primer to ignite had to allow the firing pin to move very far forward. This would describe an instance of very excessive headspace -- although it typically would not result in a blown case if only factory ammunition was used since the ductile new brass would likely seal the chamber without splitting or cracking. Can you show us a photo of a fired case (both in profile and of the base showing the primer) as compared to an unfired round?
Regardless of whether this theory is correct, the firing pin protrusion could be very much excessive, which by itself could cause the bolt to be difficult to open. You're probably going to need to have the rifle checked out by a competent gunsmith (but good luck finding one of those these days.)
It is possible that whoever did the rechambering job made the chamber somewhat too deep and in order to get the primer to ignite had to allow the firing pin to move very far forward. This would describe an instance of very excessive headspace -- although it typically would not result in a blown case if only factory ammunition was used since the ductile new brass would likely seal the chamber without splitting or cracking. Can you show us a photo of a fired case (both in profile and of the base showing the primer) as compared to an unfired round?
Regardless of whether this theory is correct, the firing pin protrusion could be very much excessive, which by itself could cause the bolt to be difficult to open. You're probably going to need to have the rifle checked out by a competent gunsmith (but good luck finding one of those these days.)
kevinlg
Sako-addicted
Unless the "lips" of the guide rod retaining collar are broken off, it is not possible for the guide rod to slip forward and lock-up the bolt. This vintage of bolt has the guide rod cross-pin, which keeps the retaining collar in it's correct position.
A picture of the firing pin protrusion would be interesting to examine.
A picture of the firing pin protrusion would be interesting to examine.
So no issues with the bolt guide you think?
I finally got the firing pin back in the bolt and in the “uncocked” position. Protrusion looks excessive to me as well as brass buildup on bolt face.
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Yes, that's excessive. You probably can find instructions on how to adjust the firing pin protrusion by doing a search of posts here on the forum. It's not difficult at all, but does require a tiny hex wrench of the right size for the lock screw in the underside of the bolt.
I was wrong 165gn not 180gn.
Probably at least 6 years worth of spent cases.....they look good to me?
