Choosing a scope & mounts?

[Dry Powder]

Greetings!

My Sako is a 75 Hunter IV 30-06. I acquired it with a 'Sako Original Medium 1" Mount'. Would like to sight in and use for hunting this fall. I'm considering one of the Nikon ProStaff 3-9x40 scopes. I like Nikon optics, and all the reviews I've read on this line of scopes seem to be very positive.

The one negative I've heard (from a single source) didn't address the scope I'm looking at but mentioned that the Sako scope mounts are no good and will crimp the scope tube.

Share your thoughts?

 

[paulsonconstruction]

I've mounted dozens of scopes using both the original Sako ringmounts (which are windage adjustable) & the Leupold ringmounts & have never "crimped" a scope tube yet. I think the negative review came from someone who doesn't fully understand how to properly use these mounts or how to mount a scope in general. People seem to be able to damage scope tubes no matter what mounting system is being used, as evidenced by all the ring marks & dents one sees on used scopes for sale. After multiple installations my scopes show none of these marks, as I take great effort to properly align & lap the rings. There is more to mounting a scope than just slapping the mounts on the rifle, dropping the scope in the rings & tightening things up. Lots of info on line on how to do it right that is well worth your time to explore.

 

[stonecreek]

I'll echo what Paulson has to say.

I've seen ring marks and crimps in scope tubes made by every type of mount available. It's amazing how some people can manage to mangle a scope with any mount you hand them.

Some of those same people look at the way that both rings on the original Sako ringmounts are windage adjustable and conclude that such adjustment can crimp the scope tube. And then they proceed apply mechanical malfeasance to demonstrate that is possible.

Bottom line: If you are mechanically inept then get someone who is not to mount your scope for you. There is nothing at all wrong with the original Sako ringmounts.

 

[LennyM]

Greetings!

My Sako is a 75 Hunter IV 30-06. I acquired it with a 'Sako Original Medium 1" Mount'. Would like to sight in and use for hunting this fall. I'm considering one of the Nikon ProStaff 3-9x40 scopes. I like Nikon optics, and all the reviews I've read on this line of scopes seem to be very positive.

The one negative I've heard (from a single source) didn't address the scope I'm looking at but mentioned that the Sako scope mounts are no good and will crimp the scope tube.

Share your thoughts?

One of my hunting rifles has a 3 - 9 x 40 Nikon ProStaff with Sako mounts with which I have had no problems. I lapped the rings myself with a 25 mm stainless steel rod using coarse and fine grinding paste. I also used a scope alignment device which works very well. As Paulson and Stone commented, research the correct way or go to a gunsmith.
My Nikon is mounted on my "Tupperware" .308 hunting rifle which I use in the mountains and dense bush which is not always kind to equipment. It has never been found wanting and has forgiven me many times. With shipping I paid the equivalent of about 450 USD. Hard core journalists use Nikon camera equipment because their cameras are so robust.

 

[Dry Powder]

Thanks folks.

I'm pretty meticulous and mechanically adept. However I've never gone through the process, let alone lapping the rings, don't have the equipment or space. Will probably end up going to a shop or smith who has what I don't (yet).

I did decide to go ahead with the Nikon ProStaff model 6722 after reading a few more reviews -- and it'll allow me to use the mounts I have.

 

[Dry Powder]

Finally located a couple local gunsmiths who claim to do lapping/mounting. Any advice about vetting them before I hand over the goods?

 

[LennyM]

Finally located a couple local gunsmiths who claim to do lapping/mounting. Any advice about vetting them before I hand over the goods?

If you search online you will find a great deal of info. It is a relatively straightforward procedure.

 

[Dry Powder]

Finally located a couple local gunsmiths who claim to do lapping/mounting.

Gunsmiths wanted about $100 for lapping, mount and columnating (sp?). Cabelas has this http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Professional-Scope-Mounting-Kits/708967.uts. Guess I'll learn a new trade.

Any advice about vetting them before I hand over the goods?

https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2017/4/7/8-questions-to-ask-your-gunsmith-now/

 

[paulsonconstruction]

Gunsmiths wanted about $100 for lapping, mount and columnating (sp?). Cabelas has this http://www.cabelas.com/product/Wheeler-reg-Professional-Scope-Mounting-Kits/708967.uts. Guess I'll learn a new trade.

https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2017/4/7/8-questions-to-ask-your-gunsmith-now/

And we wonder why there aren't any gunsmiths around. How much did the DIY kit cost at Cabella's? How much is your time worth? And what will you end up with when your done? Spend over a thousand on rifle & scope and then pinch pennies to get it put together right. I'm sure Cabela's is happy!! When you really need that smith, I hope he is still around. Just sayin'. BTW, Cabela's just got bought by the Wal-Mart of outdoor gear, Bass Pro Shop. Last I checked they don't have any gunsmiths on staff.

 

[MarkJnK]

I don't think you need to make him feel bad because he wants to learn how to do something himself, instead of paying someone else to do it. Mounting a scope isnt rocket science, and having the tools and know how will serve him well dozens of times in the future. I'm all for supporting local businesses, I am one, but I'm also the type who would encourage a customer to try it themselves if they feel inclined to do so, before billing them for a simple job.

 

[Dry Powder]

The one gunsmith to which I received a recommendation started to back-peddled HARD when I asked how long the work would take and whether I'd be able to pick it up the same day. Spooked me, after all I didn't know the guy from Adam and I had an idea of how much work was involved. So I started sleuthing, I went to state records and found that the address the smith had given me to "drop off" my rifle and scope was registered to an LLC. A little further in I discovered there's no current or old records of that LLC being registered with my state. Not listed with the BBB, no Google or other reviews. I called back again and asked if I could watch him work. "No, I can't do business like that" was his reply. Well, neither can I.

It seems my neighborhood has already been cleansed of legitimate gunsmiths by all of us DIYers. So I looked closer at the mount kit that came with my Sako and discovered the rings weren't even metal, but a semi-soft plastic. Was simple and didn't require anything from the kit at Cabelas. I'll be at the range Friday and we'll see how my bore sighting turned out.

 

[douglastwo]

DP, I have to ask, are you saying the mount kit that came with your Sako rifle has plastic rings? Are you talking about the rings that attach the scope to the rifle? And they're plastic, wow. I had no idea, they had stooped that low.

 

[Dry Powder]

@douglastwo The rings I mentioned are a "polymer insert" that looks like a compression ring between the mount rings (metal) and the scope -- they're flat against the scope barrel but convex to seat inside the cupped metal ring mounts. http://www.sako.fi/scope-mounts shows a newer model of what I have.

 

[sraaw]

They are Sako Optilock rings.....

 

[David Ludwig]

I've mounted dozens of scopes using both the original Sako ringmounts (which are windage adjustable) & the Leupold ringmounts & have never "crimped" a scope tube yet. I think the negative review came from someone who doesn't fully understand how to properly use these mounts or how to mount a scope in general. People seem to be able to damage scope tubes no matter what mounting system is being used, as evidenced by all the ring marks & dents one sees on used scopes for sale. After multiple installations my scopes show none of these marks, as I take great effort to properly align & lap the rings. There is more to mounting a scope than just slapping the mounts on the rifle, dropping the scope in the rings & tightening things up. Lots of info on line on how to do it right that is well worth your time to explore.

Very true words were spoken. Many never dowel rod and lap the rings beforehand. They just slap the mounts, rings, and scope on as fast as they can.

 

[antsa]

@douglastwo The rings I mentioned are a "polymer insert" that looks like a compression ring between the mount rings (metal) and the scope -- they're flat against the scope barrel but convex to seat inside the cupped metal ring mounts. http://www.sako.fi/scope-mounts shows a newer model of what I have.

Yep, what you have is Sako Optilock rings. I have them on all five of my Sakos. With the polymer insert you do not need to lapp the rings. If you have bases and rings, read the mounting instructions carefully. Have seen countless examples of wrongly positioned forward bases. The rear edge of the forward base is meant to line up with the edge of the ejection port.

I have never used, or even seen, the one-piece Ring mounts if that is what you have so I don't know what the recommended mounting procedure is for these.

Cheers

 

[ricksengines]

OK Guys here is the way I do it. Never marred a scope in my life.

You will need an piece of 1" round stainless rod about 8" long that is slightly beveled on both ends. The proper screwdriver needed to fit the windage screws, The proper screw driver, hex wrench or star drive to fit the ring screws.

First clean off the top of the action. Make sure that you oil it before installing the base on the receiver. This method works for Leupold mounts and rings but it will work for any similar set of scope mounts.

Mount the one or two piece base on the receiver and install the screws. Do no overtighten them. I also never use locktight on these things because it makes removal doubly difficult later on. Remember never overtighten mounting, windage, or ring screws. Hand tight is almost always sufficient.

Preparing the windage adjustment. Back out one of the two windage screws far enough to allow the opposite screw to be screwed in all the way. After it is screwed in, back it out and keep track of the number of half turns it takes to get it far enough out to allow the other screw to be screwed in all the way. Then back it out the same number of turns as the screw you did first.

Remove the top half of the split rings and check to make sure that the bottom half goes on the scope tube smoothly. There should not be any binding here. Put the top half of the split ring on the scope tube and check to make sure that both the top and bottom half of the rings go on the scope tube without binding. If any of these parts don't fit without binding you will have to open them up a bit until they fit around the tube properly.

Install the front ring. Clamp the steel bar in the ring by installing the top half of the split ring assembly. Put some gun oil on the tang of the base and insert it into the slot in the front of the base. Rotate the steel bar back and forth, turning the front ring until it turns in the slot smoothly and without binding. I also turn the bar a full 360 degrees clockwise and then counterclockwise until the front ring turns smoothly in both directions. No binding here and for gosh sakes don't try to do this with the scope or you will really mess it up. When done, remove the top of the split ring and remove the steel bar. Leave the bottom half of the base in place.

Mount the bottom half of the rear ring mount on the base and begin to turn the windage screws into the base. At first make one complete turn of each screw on either side of the mount. As the windage screws get closer to the groves in the bottom of the rear ring base drop back to half turn, then to 1/4 turns until the base is secure. I usually check to make sure all of the play is out of the base by trying to turn it slightly (left and right) just before the screws snug up. This method assures that the rear ring mount is almost dead center on the base and in proper alignment with the bore. Make sure that you alternate turning the screws. Don't screw in one side all the way and then the other. The objective of alternating from one side to the other in the end will result is an almost perfect alignment of the rear ring base with the bore.

Snug up the rear windage screws making sure that you make the same number of turn adjustments to each side of the base. Be sure to alternate sides. When tightening up the windage screws don't kill them. A little past hand tight always works just fine and won't booger the screws by you trying to overtighten them.

Take the steel bar and lay it into the rear and front ring mounts. Carefully adjust the front mount making sure that the steel bar settles into the mount and turns without binding. You can usually eyeball this fit. If done correctly the steel bar will rotate freely in both the front and rear mounts. Remove it and install the scope in the two bottom halves of the mounts. The scope should rotate freely in the mounts and slide back and forth without the mounts marring it.

Install the top halves of both rings and make sure that the gap on both sides of each split ring is the same. Begin to tighten the screws on each ring until the scope begins to have some slight resistance when you try to rotate it or move it back and forth in the rings. Remember to alternate tightening the ring screws. Do a half turn on one side then do the same on the other side until the rings just start to slightly grip the scope tube.

Setup the eye relief by moving the scope back or forward until you get a good clear sight picture that is equal to the full diameter of the scope as you look through it. Next align the crosshairs until they are level as you look through the scope. I usually do this with the rifle mounted in a cleaning jig and eyeball the crosshair alignment. 99% of the time this alignment method results in the crosshairs being properly aligned. Finish tightening up the ring screws. I usually leave them a little loose just in case I need to tweek anything when I get to the range. Be sure to tighten the ring screws by alternating from one side to another as you tighten up the screws. Don't screw one side all the way down and attempt to tighten up the opposite side. All that will do is to knock the scope out of alignment and result in a cant of the crosshairs. Tightening the ring screws takes a little time but if you do it properly an don't rush the process the finished product with serve you well for years to come. Also don't overtighten the ring screws. Hand tight will hold a scope in place on the heaviest of magnum rifles.

When you get to the range, put the rifle in a suitable rest of sand bags. Look through the scope until you see the target. Aim at the center of the bullseye. Remove the bolt and look though the bore. Move the rifle in the rest until the bullseye is centered in the barrel view. Look back through the scope and adjust windage and elevation until the scope view matches the bore view. Fire your first round and you should be within an inch or so of dead center. This method results in a three round sight in.

rick